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Old Oct 1, 2003, 10:55 AM   #11
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Posts: 610

Originally Posted by vitriol
Hi mike
I'm a beginner and just bought a digital rebel. its my first reflex camera ever so don't take my opinion too seriously! I think that if you don't need really close macro shots, you can just stick with the 18-55mm lens. I used it to take these shots. the spyder was maybe 1,5 cm long, and the flower maybe 5. I'm no specialist but i think they are not too bad.. so if you don't need really close macros, it should do the job..

Y. Benjamin

sorry for my english, i'm a french canadian!

I'm sorry, but I don't get it, not with your recommendation (it doesn't have any facts to support what you said). All I can say, if you want to get a true marco shot, get a true marco lens, I think Lin Evans said enough about this subject in his previous post (see above)
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Old Oct 1, 2003, 12:14 PM   #12
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,139

However, can someone advise me re the setup of 1 ringlite or the twin? Is it worth the extra $200?
There are numerous ways to go. Providing that you purchase one of Canon's macro lights, there are specific macro flashes which are designed to work with these systems.

For super close-up work, having two flashes and the ability to use either or both is a major plus for serious close work. If your macros are primarily at greater distances, a single "ring flash" or "ring lignt" (not to be confused with the macro flash units) are usually enough.

For use indoors where you will be photographing things having access to electrical power, you can easily build your own by using easily available circular flourescent bulbs and modifying a plastic bowl to fit over the barrel of the lens. The ring light is then attached to the inside diameter of the plastic (white) bowl and works quite well to provide good illumination for easy subjects which don't move around.

For insects or outdoor work where your lens to subject distance may be as close as .8 inch, the dual macro flash unit is by far the best solution. Just remember that any time you use a flash unit, the background will usually be black. That is anything which is much beyond the subject in terms of distance will simply be masked by blackness. The only way to prevent this is to shoot without the benefit of flash or use commercially availalbe stalks and flash units compatible with the camera as "fill flash" units.

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