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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington, DC, Metro Area, Maryland
Posts: 6,648
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Then again, there's
![]() (1/60", f/10, ISO 100, 17mm) and ![]() (1/13", f/13, ISO 100, 24mm.) P.S.: These are copied from Brian Smith's gallery in Sony's Digital Darkroom website.
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Last edited by TCav; Nov 17, 2009 at 10:12 AM. |
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#12 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,372
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FP,
You are now running into an issue common on the internet. It's a challenge when trying to find out answers to questions on different aspects of photography. The reality is all 3 of us are trying to help but unless I missed something none of the three of us do studio photography. The best advice I can give is - when you want to do a specific type of photography - you want to seek out photographers who do that type. They're in the best position to give you good advice. You have to be careful when you say 'portrait' because there are all different types of portraits. Different types of portraits - outdoor, environmental, studio all have their differences. You want to do studio work with backdrops. The path to the least amount of confusion is to find people that actually do that type of photography. And, shockingly enough - a Nikon, Pentax or Oly user who does studio work can give you better guidance than a Canon user who does not. It's why gear-centric forums are often a bad place to ask for that advice and why genre-centric forums are better. So, I would suggest looking in the Studio and People forums here and look for people who actually DO studio work - preferably ones who post photos of studio results. Those are the people that are going to give the best answers without confusing you further like the 3 of us have done. |
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,353
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Quote:
The concensus is that for 'studio' shoot the lens is usually required to be closed down for max. sharpness and contrast (coming from the brighter strobes output) -> The f/2.8 only comes into play because one needs a bright lens to see and compose in the darkened studio (and for the camera AF to work in low-light with its higher precision focusing points) With regard to the focal lenght there's no right or wrong for portrait: 1. For tight head shots then the longer lens will do - The issue here is if the studio is small then there's might not be enough room to step back with a 70-200 2. With a shorter focal lenght one can get 3/4 lenght headshot as well as walk closer to get a tighter crop on the face: Lady in Red Outdoor outside the studio though, unlike the author, I would exploit fully "the compression long telephoto lenses" effect of a long tele to screen out the background... Here's an example with a 400mm: [Recovered Thread: 104309]
Last edited by NHL; Nov 17, 2009 at 5:03 PM. |
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