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Old Aug 4, 2005, 8:52 AM   #1
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Not sure if this is the right forum to post this on...but...I took this photo from my Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 lens to see how sharp it is. This was taken at 75mm f2.8 ISO100 with flourescent lighting in our kitchen :roll:. Distance from the lens to the subject was about 7 inches. My question is why is the nutrition information background not so white? Do I have a problem with the white balance settings on my 20D?

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Old Aug 4, 2005, 8:59 AM   #2
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If you are using auto white balance it is probably off a bit, florucents are not easy to balance for.
The image itself looks a bit underexposed, which would cause the white background to be not-so-white.

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Old Aug 4, 2005, 11:18 AM   #3
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closeups seem to be tough on the white balance as well.. looks like a combo of this and the underexposure as previously mentioned..

plus using a lens at its closest focusing distance is not a good measure of its sharpness unless its a macro... i would back off to normal shooting distances..
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Old Aug 4, 2005, 11:52 AM   #4
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If you go into your image editing program (any program that has a "levels" correction) you'll see the three pointers, one on either end and one in the center- all below the histogram that probably shows everything bunched to the left.

Take the pointer on the right-handside and shift it to the left until it meets the right-handend of the histogram, that will whiten your image to what you were expecting to see.

Of course, you could also shoot RAW, leave your camera set to auto white balance and change the white balance later to what looks "right"- whatever right is,when you post process the image in the RAW converter- that's what I do and it works great.
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Old Aug 4, 2005, 1:30 PM   #5
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There is a fluorescent and tungsten setting in the Raw conversion programs. That and as Greg specified is the simplest way. It takes a while to get the hang of making individual setting on the spot and can be rather boring.

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Old Aug 5, 2005, 4:31 AM   #6
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I'm with Greg on this one...

I set the custom function (forget which one) so I can change file format/size with the dial - anytime I'm shooting indoors I switch to RAW. 90% of the time the auto WB does a very good job (much better than the specific dial-in settings IMHO) but for the 10% that fail it's nice to have the RAW image to adjust the WB on. All in all, it seems quicker to do this way than spend the time adjusting curves or histogram of the JPEG to accomplish the same affect. The trade-off is of course memory - but memory is cheap.
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