Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digital Cameras (Point and Shoot) > Casio

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Jul 4, 2006, 11:07 PM   #1
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3

Can anyone please help me? I have an EX-Z850. Works fairly well, particularly when assited by manual controls settings.

Problem: images downloded from the camera are often much darker than in the camera (too dark). On the JPEG image you can see the scenery behind a person but not the person or the person's face. Or you can see the telephone booth, but not the person posing right in front of it, or you can see the room and the lights (indoors, at night), but not the faces of the people posing.

This happens whether I download with Casio's software, or simply drag and drop from the cardto my hard drive.

Please help. Thanks.
ppolanco is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old Jul 5, 2006, 3:21 AM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 189

When shooting against light use either Backlight Bestshot mode or fill-in flash.
No problem with Casio JPEG in Your case.

Best, JR

Reps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 5, 2006, 9:24 PM   #3
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3

Thank you so much for your reply. After checking it, I note that many of the affected images were not BS. However, some are.

For example, a Best Shot High Sensitivityshot of inside a room with the curtains drawn and the lights on produces a good picture in the camera and not in JPEG (people and faces are too dark).

I also have other best shots that show this problem, but in those cases I can not be positive which BS I used, as opposed to the Hich Sensitivity one just mentiones. Is ther a way to determine which BS I used?.

Botton line, the problem is there even with Best Shots. Any ideas?
ppolanco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 5, 2006, 9:37 PM   #4
Senior Member
Sintares's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 647

Camera lcds nearly always show the image as bright as possible and are not truely representative of the actual shot.

If your camera has a histogram use that to judge shots, then once downloaded to the computer use whatever editor youhave , Photoshop, PS Elements, PaintshopPro, The Gimp, Picasaetc etc to adjust the image to your likeing.
Sintares is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 5, 2006, 9:51 PM   #5
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,371

All of those scene modes would confuse me. Casio sures packs a lot of options into a camera.

A camera has a limited range of bright to dark that it can capture. So, it makes choices so that most of the iimage is correctly exposed, depending on your metering mode. Sometimes that may not be what you want.

In the default metering mode, it's looking at the entire image and trying to determine how to expose it. You can use metering mode to change the way it exposes a scene to some extent. If you switch to Center Weighted Metering, it will still look at the entire image, but places more emphasis on correctly exposing what's in the center of the frame.

Or, you can switch to spot metering and it meters only on a small spot.

But, the easiest way to control exposure is to use Exposure Compensation when you see conditions like a backlit subject.

Exposure Compensation lets you alter the way a camera is exposinganimage (brighten or darken it compared to the way the camera meteredthe scene). It's one of my most frequently used settings on most cameras.

A +EV value gives you a brighter exposure. The camera uses a slower shutter speed and/or larger aperture to get a brighter exposure, compared to what the camera's autoexposure algorithms would have selected.

A -EV value gives you a darker exposure. The camera uses a faster shutter speed and/or smaller aperture to get a darker exposure, compared to what the camera's autoexposure algorithms would have selected.

Correct Exposure comes down to the amount of light, the ISO speed, the shutter speed, and the aperture. A variety of combinations will produce identical exposure. You only need to use Exposure Compensation if you want a brighter or darker image compared to what the camera's autoexposure would normally give you in the same conditions.

An example of when you may want to use a +EV setting is for a backlit subject, where the subject would normally be much darker than the rest of the image. Since the camera has a limited dynamic range, it doesn't know that you want the dark subject exposed properly (at the expense of the rest of the image). If you brighten the exposure for one part, the rest may be overexposed. So, any choice can be a compromise.

If your subject is much brighter than the rest of the image, you may want to use a -EV setting for Exposure Compensation so that your subject is not overexposed (making the rest of the image darker, too).

I'd suggest practicing using Exposure Compensation, taking the same photo using more than one setting. This is commonly referred to as bracketing your exposure (increasing the probability that one will be exposed the way you want). As you become more familiar with your camera's metering behavior, you'll begin to recogonize when you may need to use Exposure Compensation to help out in some conditions.

As others have mentioned, using a fill flash for a backlit subject is often a good choice, too.

Your camera also has a built in histogram feature so that you can get an idea of how well an image was exposed. You can read a bit on histograms here:


BTW, it's not unusual to see a large variation in brightness between your camera's display and your computer monitor. Sometimes that's normal and sometimes it's not.

You could also have a monitor calibration issue impacting what you see (in other words, the images may not really be as dark as you think because of a monitor issue). This is a very common problem with LCD displays (which are often too contrasty, making bright portions too bright, and dark portions too dark).

Here is a site with some good info on monitor calibration, along with links to some tools you can use to help calibrate a monitor.


One other thing to check is your contrast setting in the camera. A lot of manufacturers tend to process the images so that they're a bit too contrasty. Sometimes dialing back the contrast settings in the camera can help that out.

JimC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 15, 2006, 6:43 PM   #6
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3

Thank you and Sintares for your replies. I guess I at the beginning of the learning curve, and somewhat forced into it, since we really wanted a point and shoot camera. At the beginning I thought the million choices Casio gives us were optional. Well, I no longer think so. Either you use them or you miss what you wanted to preserve in an image.

Thanks again.

ppolanco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 31, 2006, 4:24 AM   #7
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 11

May beyour monitor screen is too dark ,did you calibrate it yet?

go to this site and calibrate your monitor

JohnKid is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 7:52 AM.