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Old Jul 21, 2005, 3:50 PM   #11
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Thanks pappy,

the next picture was done with the ring light alone.

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Old Jul 21, 2005, 5:32 PM   #12
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Have you tried using different coloured balloons, or placing one inside the other, like the effect of a filter ??

TD
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Old Jul 22, 2005, 12:32 AM   #13
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Sorry tommysdad,

I have just started with this project.
Just thinking of different shapes, but my son is out of stock..
My next project is a composite construction.
I am searching for a flat metallic film on top and a curved opaque foil below.
The valve could be stolen from a inflatable device which helps children to swimm.

If I need different colours, I prefer photoshop. There could be a nice effects with different colours from two sides. Or think about multicoloured reflections....

I used an adapter of the "stoney79" type with golden metallic paper.
Germans use the "mini dickmann" container for this purpose.
This has a nice effect on skins.

Here is my picture with a stoney bouncer (shown in the pana forum), the reflections on the waterdrop accelerated my development.

I am waiting for the first balloon picture in this forum/thread!!
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Old Jul 22, 2005, 9:30 AM   #14
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At the moment I`m working on a bouncer set up for my Sunpak flash unit.

I have made the shroud from an oldplastic lens case with a snap shut lid.The shroud is a tight fit on the flash head.

The shroud was see through so I buffed it over with a sanding block.No test pics as of yet, no balloons :G.

Hopefully the balloon will stay inflated,I intent to clamp the end of the balloon when the lid is shut.


Mmm lookinat that pics ,I may of cut the hole for the balloon too big, I can fix that though.


Thanks for the inspiration seemolf



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Old Jul 22, 2005, 10:21 AM   #15
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Well, you have to clamp, but I prefer the valve!
In your case I would use the cover of the film container.
Cut the inner part and glue the rest on a black plate (with a hole in the middle),
This plate can be fixed by "velcro" (I hope this is the right expression (german: klettband)) - there is enough space on both sides of the flash to fix some velcro tape.

..by the way if your converter loves shadows, the balloon helps.
(the vignetting is panasonic specific and can be removed)
I have started to use the balloon for portraits, but the distance is limited.





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Old Jul 25, 2005, 7:11 PM   #16
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Thanks for the tips and comparison shots Seemolf.

TD
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Old Aug 2, 2005, 9:29 AM   #17
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Here is a new solution I would like to share.
There are diffusorplates for the olympus achromats.
Each lens has a different one - bad luck!
I´ve got only one diffusor - even worse!!

As I like this diffusor and it would do a good job with all of my lenses, I used its design for a more flexible version.
I had to search my resources for an adequate material.
This opaque bottle is perfect (german: AHK Spiritus). I had to take three layers to get the right "macro diffusion" . So I preferred a variable design for other purposes, where I need more light!

I guess the design is selfexplaining and best of all this should fit to many other cameras.
The diffusor is fixed with rubber tape at the place normally holding the lenshood. The rubber is not necessary in this case.

The next version will include a dark plate, so that the slave flashes take over the job.
Or would you prefer coloured ones t.d.?

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Old Aug 2, 2005, 9:31 AM   #18
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a short test with the well known dragonfly.
From the left to the right with 1,2,3 diffusors.
You can influence the DOL (depth of light) with these diffusors.

Please post your opinion or show better solutions!!!!!

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Old Aug 2, 2005, 11:22 AM   #19
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I did something similar like tommysdad did for my A200.



It's hideous and cumbersome...and since the flash power on my A200 is very limited (3 meters), it didn't work as well outside as inside.

Here's a small test pic.


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Old Aug 2, 2005, 11:34 AM   #20
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well, there is lot of work to be done.
I was talking about transportable macrolight :-)
But I see there is a need for solutions.

thanks for sharing
sven
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