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Old Sep 28, 2003, 4:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mikemyers
Yep, you're right - I've used it. I called Olympus to ask about how I can use BOTH the pre-capture mode, AND the ability to pre-view the shots I've taken after I take the picture. I haven't been able to do it, and Olympus told me it can't be done.

If I want to preview the image, after the shots are taken, I can't use "pre-capture". If I turn on pre-capture, I have to switch into playback mode to view the image.

You're completely right - if I could turn on pre-capture, I'd solve the problem I had, but to verify that it really worked, and that I really did get the image I wanted, I'd have to switch into the other mode and check. In retrospect, your way might have been better.

Stacie, do any "newer" cameras have the pre-capture feature? It's a great concept! I'd love to be able to use it on one of the newer DSLR cameras...
Mikemyers, I think Stacie has given you invaluable advice! Get lots of SM or CF memory, make sure you start the precapture mode earlier enough and keep it running at 15fps until the action is gone, and you WILL get the pic you want-- you'll just have to delete a bunch of them!

Some tips:
1. If you can afford to do so, don't frame your shots too tightly-- I know there's not a lot of cropping latitude with the E100RS, but I also can recall missing a few [/i]perfect shots if I just hadn't zoomed in quite so much.
2. You are wise to pre-focus on exactly where you want to take the shot-- it saves a lot of time and "digital film" that way!
3. Stick with 100 ASA on the E100RS for your best shots-- 300 starts to get noisy, and 200 is OK if you can't shoot at 100 (yes, I know, low light is a killer!).

I may have missed your logic, so I'll just ask (because I like the ability to pre-view the pics in the viewfinder immediately after capture, too): Why worry about pre-view if you are using precapture and 15fps? Are you concerned about running out of memory? Give it a try using the suggestions above, and if you don't, absolutely, positively, get useable photos in bright sunlight at ASA 100, then I don't think you're going to be able to do so with any other camera. Let us know how you come out!
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Old Sep 28, 2003, 5:30 PM   #22
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I agree... I've learned from previous races. I went to this one with tons of "digital film" and didn't use it all up, although I did fill up my laptop. Once the laptop was filled, I then used up almost all my memory cards. I don't know if I had enough to use "pre-capture" on everything, but the next time I do this, I'll try.

I don't like digital viewfinders, but on the other hand, I *really* liked the preview idea, as I knew right then if I had the shot I wanted. Most of the time, I already knew the image I wanted to get, and it was mostly a matter of timing to get exactly what I wanted.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Framing - you're right on! I lost lots of images because the car wasn't where I wanted it to be. With the e-10, I've got lots of room to work with, but with the e-100, it's so marginal right now, that I can't really crop the image too much. I ened up where I did crop just a little bit for most images, because (as you said) it's too hard to frame as tightly as I wanted.

Pre-Focus - I'm amazed that the e-100 did this so well. I aimed at the spot where I wanted to shoot a car, pressed the button half way, and the camera actually did focus right there - which amazes me, as I was just aiming at a piece of asphalt maybe fifteen feet away. I then aimed the camera at that spot, and with my other eye, I watched the car approaching, and when it was eight feet away from the right spot, I pressed the button. (Not really eight feet, but by practice, I found where I had to have the car positioned, so it would be in the right spot when the shutter image was captured.)

I tried "panning", but with the digital viewfinder, I found that almost impossible. I guess the viewfinder updates only so many times a second, and I just couldn't "see" what was happening. With my e-10, panning is easy, but the e-10 isn't fast enough to capture the action. If you have any suggestions on how to pan with the e-100's digital viewfinder, that would really help, but I don't think the camera can do it.

These are tiny little cars, running at up to 70 mph real speed. I try to pick the slowest parts of the track to shoot them, as then they're moving much slower, say, 15mph maybe at the slowest, but that's sort of like a full-size car going over 100 mph.

Here's the track where I took all these photos....

I went up in a small airplane to capture that image.

You know, a friend of mine had a Canon 10D. He let me try it out. I watched a car approaching through the viewfinder, panned along with the car, pressed the shutter at just the right spot, and wow, I got a perfect image the first time! Exactly what I wanted, in focus, right where I pressed the button. That alone sold me on needing to upgrade to something better....

I love both of my Olympus cameras, but I've got to admit, there have been time where tossing them into a Gorilla Pit would have made me feel real good!!!! That's how frustrated I was last year, and earlier this year!
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Old Sep 30, 2003, 10:53 AM   #23
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After reading a lot more in this (and other) forum, I think there's nothing really new going on.

Even in the days of film, you wouldn't be expected to take a roll of 25-ASA Kodachrome and go out and shoot action photos, or photos in low light. You'd buy high speed film.

The problem here, is first you buy a camera, and from then on, your only choices of "film speed" are what was provided by the camera manufacturer. If you've got a camera that just plain can't work well at ASA 400 or higher equivalents, it's as bad as finding yourself with only a roll of slow speed film, and wanting to take pictures in low light.

The reason I didn't think this way sooner, is because with film, it's not a limitation. No matter what camera you've got, you can always buy high speed film. Not so with digital... With a camera that can't take decent (reasonably noise/grain free) images at high ISO speeds, very simply you CAN NOT do the same work you might have done with a film camera.
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