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Old Mar 13, 2005, 12:04 PM   #21
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pchew,

Well as much as I like Qimage, I do have a retraction to make.

I have found that Iam having difficultymaking borderless prints on odd sized paper (using single pre cut odd sheets).

There is a way, via photo placement on A4 size paper for 5.5" X 8.5" sized images, using borderless settingsin Print preferences onLetter size paper & then sizing your photo to5.5" X 8.5"in Qimage edit page/initial bounds. Then you will need to cut your photos in half with paper trimmer. You could probably do this with other sizes (smaller than A4) but all would require paper trimming at end.

On single pre cut sheets, I am able to get centered maximum coverage (with small border) on odd size paper,say 8.5" X 5.5" (A4 cut in half)or odder sized cuts.....I was provided some samples of matte paper that were 4.5" X 5" by adjusting image size (Initial Bounds) settings in Qimage edit.

Using Qimage, I can almost get Borderless on pre cut paper if I do the photo placement technique with A4 Borderless settings (in Printer) with two photo setting in Qimage at the 5.5" X 8.5" custom size. I load one photo, make sure my pre cut paper is oriented correctly in my printer and print. This leaves me with about a 1mil strip to trim off on the long side of the printed photo.

I apologize for the misleading statement regarding borderless printing on odd size paper.If anyone has discovered a way to do borderless on single odd sized, pre cut paper sheet (no paper trimming at end of print), I would appreciate hearing about it.


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Old Mar 24, 2005, 3:48 PM   #22
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dishinit: thanks for the detailed info. Sorry I did not get back to you sooner as I was busy trying printing.

Now I can print borderless no problem with Qimage. Thanks for the suggestions.

One issue I do notice: the brightness from my print seems to be always higher than my monitor. I did not have my monitor properly calibrated only through Adobe Gamma. However, when I look histogram of several photos it is in the middle and when I look at the photos published by others it does look alright on screen. So wonder whether there is any setting that I should try. Any similar experience ?

Thanks
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Old Mar 27, 2005, 11:46 PM   #23
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pchew,

Is your print itself too bright?......or is it that the print brightness does not match the monitor?

If the 1st is the case, you can use Qimage to adjust color/levels/exposure/brightness/contrast etc and apply it individually, or globally to all your prints....Look under "Batch Filter" in Qimage.

If your print does not match your monitor brightness, but otherwise looks fine as an individulaphoto (not blown out or too contrasty), then your monitor needs better calibration.

Make sure you adjust using the correct settings for your monitor when using Adobe Gamma, ie:

sRGB IEC61966-2.1 for monitor, (for CRT) Phosphors=either P22-EUB or Triniton and set your monitor Red/Green/Blue in dim light, Windows Default 2.20. Then adjust single gamma, Hardware White Point=6500, Adjusted White Point=Same as Hardware and confirm changes. Save with specific name/date. Don't be afraid to calibrate several times until it feels right.

I use a grey background when adjusting Red/Green/Blue to better sense neutral gray(Display/Properties/Desktop=None...... Appearance/Advance/Desktop=select gray----go back to original when completed with Adobe Gamma) Color Adjustmentscan sometimes becompromises to achievea neutral graydepending upon your monitor/viewing device (ie: hint of Darker central red square to achieve neutral gray than you might otherwise adjust)

Do not expect your print to be absolutely identical to your monitor. Too many variables. Broadcast light versus reflected light. Even if you had a Hardware Calibrated Monitor it would still not be an absolute match. Monitors can dispay more colors than most printers can print. Monitor White Point is different than the White Point of your paper. LCD's are different than CRT's and depending upon quality (LCD Screen) change colors/Brightness with viewing angles. It is my understanding that currently, quality CRT's are still the preferred vewing device for accuracy incalibration.

The best way to match a calibrated Monitor tofinal print,is with a Profiling application.

Mike Chaney, who created and improves upon Qimage, also has developed a very good reasonably priced profiler, "Profile Prism". You will also need a scanner. Somewhere (I think in this forum) I found a link to a list of scanners that are known to work with Profile Prism. Profile Prismlacks hardware calibration for your monitor, but if you take your time and follow the instructions, your monitor profile will be OK. Just not as spot on as with a hardware device. You can then develope specific printer/paper/ink profiles that can be better than Canons or paper supplier profiles. This is especially true if you are using 3rd party inks. I can tell you from personal experience that the learning curve, especially when "tweaking" (editing)profiles can be steep & sometimes frustrating. I can also say it is personally gratifying when my custom made profile using my paper, is better than a canned profile. I have 3 different printers, an i960, a iP5000 and a Epson R300. The i960 & the R300 use 3rd party inks and after profiling, I am getting prints from each of my printers, that now, are not only almost indistinguishable from each other, but to my eyes are outstanding in color quality and detail. Initially, that was certainly not the case between the Epson & the Canon's, even with all printers using OEM inks. After profiling....Obvious improvement. But it does take time and patience, as long as 4+ hours (as I am still learning the nuances of the editing program) for one specific paper/ink/printer) But boy do I feel good when I compare my best "canned" profile print against mybestcustom profile print.I am hopeful that I will improve my efficiency and reduce my mistakes as I become more proficient in interpreting my print & instituting the proper corrections.

Sorry to be so long winded.

Just an update, I believe a major problem I am expeiencing with my Initial profiles & why I spend so long perfecting & re-perfecting them, is that myscanner(HP all in one)introduces strong color casts. If I could find that web site that lists scanners that work well with PP, I would be very happy.......Any help out there?



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Old Mar 28, 2005, 2:03 PM   #24
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dishinit: Sorry for not responding quickly. Wow, thanks so much to take the time to write the long post. I particularly appreciate the tricks you described on doing calibration using Adobe Gamma.

In my case, I noticed that the match between print Qimage print and monitor is not that good, in particular, I think it lack a bit of contrast on print. Looks a bit better though at day time natural light compared with the florecent light at evening.

Will try calibrating the monitor again as you suggested and see what happens.

Cheers

Perry
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Old Mar 29, 2005, 2:44 PM   #25
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I saw on Fujifilm website using others in papers and use Film/transparencies etc. on Fuji Premium Photo papers. Maybe it gives somewhat better result for kirkland too.

Please try and post the comments.
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Old Mar 29, 2005, 9:29 PM   #26
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vdd123, Are you suggesting to use the "Transparency" setting in the Canon Print Pref/Paper source setting with Kirkland Paper?


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Old Apr 3, 2005, 12:00 PM   #27
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YES.
But it dosen't seems to work with FUJIFILM papers itself. It produces worse image quality.
Dosen't work and please don't waste ink or papers.
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Old Apr 15, 2005, 6:55 PM   #28
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steve222 wrote:
[quote]Anyone using Kirkland Photo paper with a Canon ip5000?

What settings work the best?

I've tried "Pro, High, Auto" recommended settings and "Pro Fine Auto" but prints seem to be a bit on the green/yellow side (Adobe color mgt. off). I have been using Ilford Smooth Gloss with PS Elements 3 (Adobe color mgt. on, SRGB) and Ilford profile with good results. Tried Ilford profile with Kirkland paper and got poor results.

Any recommendations using windows print wizard, Easy Photo Print or Adobe color mgt.?


I have an IP4000 and have recently switched from Canon Photo Paper Pro to Costco/Kirkland paper. I notice the following"

When I cut to size ie. 4x6 the cost is 4 cents compared to 29 cents for the Canon. The quality is about 98% as good. I do not get any bad color cast.

I print from PhotoShop. In PS I set my color profile to Custom - and Choose Canon PR1 for Photo Paper Pro.

When printing in the Canon Driver Window I choose Canon Photo Paper Pro for the paper. If I want more striking results and I usually do I go to the effects menu and select the vivid check box. I check all 3 boxes below that for the optomizer and usually select strong for the noise reduction.

Hope that helps
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Old May 3, 2005, 4:30 PM   #29
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Man !!!

I was very surprised the way softwares chages the final print quality. With the Custom FINE quality and photo paper pro, the result came out using Nikon Viwer was extremely amazing. The pictures were amazingly sharp, vivid and appealing. They were best and much different compared with all the other softwares I used. Give it a try and you'll THANK ME (NIKON)
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Old May 6, 2005, 12:23 PM   #30
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dishinit wrote:


Just an update, I believe a major problem I am expeiencing with my Initial profiles & why I spend so long perfecting & re-perfecting them, is that my scanner(HP all in one) introduces strong color casts. If I could find that web site that lists scanners that work well with PP, I would be very happy.......Any help out there?

[/quote]
You might want to try these links
http://www.ddisoftware.com/prism/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/prismtalk/messages

Hope you can find the info you need on one of these pages.
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