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Old Jan 6, 2005, 11:32 AM   #11
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Tim:

It's highly unlikely that the camera had focus locked for these photos. First of all, make sure you're in the right focus mode.

Close-up/MacroFocus mode (the flower icon on most models) won't work if you're too far away, and Normal Focus Modes won't work if you're too close.Landscape Focus (mountain icon) is for very far away subjects. You may also want to reset your camera to factory defaults, just to make sure you didn't change anything that's impacting Autofocus. You'll finda RESETchoice under your Setup menu for this purpose.

Also, make sure you've got a focus lock by half pressing the shutter button first (if focus lock is achieved, the AF Target marks in the display will turn green, indicating the area that focus is locked on, and you'll see a green dot in the display). Then, press the shutter button down the rest of the way to take the photo. If you don't get lock, you'll see a Red Dot.

If you don't have focus lock, you'll need more light (or contrast in your subject).In this case, try aiming at an area the same distance as your subject that has more contrast -- half press to get focus lock -- reframe so that your subject is in the image where you want, and press the shutter button the rest of the way down.

Here are the distances your model will work at in Normal and Close-Up (macro) Autofocus Modes:

Normal wide -- 60 cm (2 ft.) to infinity
Normal tele -- 2 m (6.6 ft.) to infinity
Close-up wide -- 0.12-0.7 m (4.7-27.6 in.)
Close-up tele -- 1.2-2.1 m (3.9-6.9 ft.)



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Old Jan 6, 2005, 12:59 PM   #12
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JimC wrote:
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Tim:

It's highly unlikely that the camera had focus locked for these photos. First of all, make sure you're in the right focus mode.
I wasn't in either focus mode, neither the Mountain or the Flower icon was on. The only other option is the blue brackets, which appear when in NORMAL mode and when I press half way down turn green and lock. Perhaps when I'm 3 to 6 feet away I should try using the flower icon?

I reset the defaults once, but it made no difference, although I can't find any settings under the Set Up Menu that could effect picture-taking quality; Except perhaps Orientation Sensor? Which by default is set to ON.

What do you mean that has more contrast? I assumed that the flash at 4 feet would be enough light in a daylighted room with lights also on.

It appears that when in Normal Auto Mode, I need to be at least 6.6 from the subject. That might be one key, but I recall many pictures with the same results from that distance. I'll try some more photos.

Tim

Quote:

Here are the distances your model will work at in Normal and Close-Up (macro) Autofocus Modes:

Normal wide -- 60 cm (2 ft.) to infinity
Normal tele -- 2 m (6.6 ft.) to infinity
Close-up wide -- 0.12-0.7 m (4.7-27.6 in.)
Close-up tele -- 1.2-2.1 m (3.9-6.9 ft.)


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Old Jan 6, 2005, 1:33 PM   #13
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timbuk2 wrote:
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What do you mean that has more contrast? I assumed that the flash at 4 feet would be enough light in a daylighted room with lights also on.
The Autofocus System must be able to see contrast in an image to focus. So, if you try to focus on a blank wall (or solid color object), it will have difficulty. Vertical Lines in a subject actually work best with most Autofocus Systems.

The key is to make sure you've got focus lock with a half press before taking the photo.

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It appears that when in Normal Auto Mode, I need to be at least 6.6 from the subject. That might be one key, but I recall many pictures with the same results from that distance. I'll try some more photos.
Nope -- That's when you're at full zoom. You'll see two sets of numbers for each focus mode -- one when you're at the wide angle lens setting, and the other when you're at full zoom. Focus distances will need to increase when more zoom is used.

For Normal Autofocus Mode, your closest focus distance is 2 feet at the wide angle lens setting (but it wouldn't hurt to be a little further away, as this number is probably "borderline").


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Old Jan 6, 2005, 1:51 PM   #14
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I would think that the child would have plenty of contrast, I would also think that focusing on another object and then returning to your subject could very well throw the subject out of focus if it wasn't the exact same distance away. It seems I need to take a photogrphy class to use my new camera indoors. That was my original complaint, is that my three older cameras took great pics indoors with ease, and obviously, this one doesn't. I don't think I'VE changed that much! ;-)

I've tried not using the Zoom at all when taking indoor photos attempting to make them more in focus. I thought, at first, that might be my problem. (I'm zoomed all the way out)

The photos that I linked to above, what Manual Mode changes should I try to allow for better focus and more light? It seems that one of the settings for lightness only effects the viewfinder and not the image when in Manual Modes.

Tim

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Old Jan 6, 2005, 2:02 PM   #15
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brianhare wrote:
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Oh,,,,,only use red eye mode (mode with 2 flash bursts),,,when taking pics of people,,,that is all it`s intended for.....



Brian
I was in SCENES Mode and selected PARTY for best shots of people indoors. I guess that automatically flashes twice for red eye. I was trying to find a better setting for indoor photography without the double flash... which is still what I'm trying to do. I'm going to reluctantly try my external flash unit. If it takes much better indoor photos, I guess it will just prove that there is a lot of difference between the DX7590 and the DC290... being that I prefer the old one for indoor photos. I may have to use two cameras, it just is frustrating that one would need to.

By the way, this is a great forum and I appreciate all the input. I used Steve's Reviews to determine which camera to buy in the first place, but of course I made the decision based on my previous success with Kodak.

Tim
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Old Jan 6, 2005, 4:23 PM   #16
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Tim Ive had my 7590 for a couple months now and am very happy with it. I took about 200 indoor shots over xmas holiday and very few (maybe 6 or8 )came out too dark. The rest were fine. I used mainly portrait mode. Perhaps you could try another 7590 at the store and compare it to yours?

Dan


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Old Jan 6, 2005, 4:55 PM   #17
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Thanks Dan,
Cute baby ;-)
Your picture looks a little dark to me too. I noticed mainly the difference was my F-stop was 2.8 and yours was 3.2 when I just tried the Portrait mode. Was that what the camera selected automatically based on the available data and focal length? If you wanted to make it a little more light in the next shot, what settings would you change?

Thanks
Tim

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Old Jan 7, 2005, 5:05 PM   #18
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Tim ...I'm pretty new at this myself ,hopefully someone else here can answer that for you..So far i've been sticking with the auto modesbut I amstarting to learn a lot from the fine folks here.

Dan


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Old Jan 10, 2005, 1:00 AM   #19
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I got to try out my camera (still struggling with it) at the track today. 50 degrees, cloudy and windy but we raced anyway. I was stuck in one location for the whole day, but tried numerous settings and similar shots. I don'think I learned much, except that for some reason the Shutter Priority mode took the best photo for the day. I'm not sure whether I went up or down with it, my first try and all. These bikes & Formula V were going anywhere from 45 to 75 MPH when they passed me. Can anyone give me some tips as to how to improve these?

Thanks
Tim

http://www.mytimbuk2.com/Hallett_Jan_05/Page.html
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Old Jan 10, 2005, 1:20 AM   #20
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Tim, Your shutter speed is too slow. Notice how much sharper the pic of the wrecker is than the pics of the moving vehicles.
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