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|May 22, 2004, 7:23 AM||#1|
Join Date: May 2004
Well now I have used my A2 for nearly 2 month.
Before I bought it and especialy after, I have read almost everything about it.
DPreview http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/konicaminoltaa2/completly kills it.
Steves Digicam http://www.steves-digicams.com/2004_reviews/a2.htmlhave some complaints but overall good.
DC Resource http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/minolta/dimage_a2-review/index.shtmloverall the same as Steves.
But I can´t see all these BIG problems in the real world (I have an A2 of my own you now !). The above reviews tend to be an orgie in complex measurments, thats ok but nobody have given a statement after a longer use .... except one reviewer, Michael Reichmannand his http://www.luminous-landscape.com/
Look at his articles:
And most important:
He is the onlyone that I can agree with !
And for the last a little word about afterprocessing and the need of it:
With my old digicam, a Olympus C-40 zoom I never afterprocessed the picture, why You wonder ? Well listen to the word "afterprocessing" it sounds quite complicated
Now with my A2 I have grown and with a expensive digicam like the A2 Youof course want the best result. So ... I read and read. And now I can see that it´s quite simple and only take aprox. 3-4 min.and the best, You can nearlyhavethe same workflow with every picture ! Below I have attached a note with the workflow that I use (It´s mainly things I have found on the internet and then tested out with a good result). I have also now afterprocessed allthe Olympus pictures and what can I say ... the result for the better is worth the time !
Thanks for the word !
[align=center]Workflow for Konica Minolta Dimage A2[/b][/align]
— Shoot at ISO 64 when possible[/b]
— Shoot in RAW mode[/b]
— [/b]"Expose to the right"[/b]
Set up a tripod shot; say a typical summer scene with blue sky, while puffy clouds and green grass. Meter as usual and take a shot. Review the histogram. Now take another shot at +1 or so "overexposure", but not so much as to overexposed the highlights (the clouds for example). Make sure that nothing in the frame is flashing overexposure, but that the histogram is skewed to the right as far as possible.[/i]
Now, load the "[/i]properly exposed" frame into a RAW converter, do your usual corrections and then send it into Photoshop. Next, load the "exposed-to-the-right" frame and do the same. But, make sure that you use the RAW converter's gamma, brightness and contrast controls to [/i]normalize it first. Now load this frame into Photoshop.[/i]
Compare the two. Look at deep shadow areas for noise and posterization. See if [/i]you can see a difference. If not, no loss. Just continue as before. But if you do, you'll have learned a new technique that may be of use down the road. [/i]
— Use a Luminance Smoothing and Color Noise Reduction of approximately 50 for each setting in [/b]Adobe Camera RAW[/b]
— Check at 100% and adjust for any chromatic aberration in Camera RAW[/b]. The amount needed will vary by focal length and subject matter[/b]
— Work in 16 bit mode as long as possible[/b]
— Start in [/b]Photoshop with "Local contrast enhancement"[/b]
Try the following setting using the [/i]Unsharp Mask filter in Photoshop:[/i]
Amount — 20%[/i][/i]
Radius — 50[/i][/i]
Threshold — 0[/i][/i]
— Use "Noise Ninja" or a similar competent noise reduction program[/b]
— Use a sophisticated sharpening program such as [/b]Photokit Sharpener[/b]. My usual settings for prints shot with the A2 are as follows...[/b]
* Capture Sharpener: [/i]Digital High Res / Medium Edge[/i]
* Output Sharpener[/i]:[/i] Inkjet / paper and size selection is needed[/i]
Or use Unsharp Mask filter in Photoshop with for example:
Unsharp Mask 150, 1.5, 8
Amount: This setting controls the overall amount of sharpening. When you compare sharpening effects, you want to zoom in on the image (to 100% and occasionally to 200%) to see all the detail. Compare different copies of the same image area using different settings for Amount. You sharpen an image by looking for edges in the photograph and enhancing those edges by making one side of them darker and the other side of them lighter. Edges are sharp color or contrast changes in an image. [/i]
Radius: This setting controls the number of pixels along an edge that you modify when you sharpen the image. Again, try running the filter with different settings and compare several copies of the same image side by side. [/i]
Threshold: When you set Threshold to 0, everything in the image becomes a candidate for being an edge and getting sharpened. If you set the Threshold to, say 10, then an edge will only be found and sharpened if there is a difference of at least 10 points (in the range from 0 to 255) in the pixel values along that edge. The larger the value you give to the Threshold setting, the more contrasty an edge needs to be before it is sharpened.
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