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Old Jun 6, 2002, 11:38 PM   #1
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Default Here's a good place for questions...

Glad to help if I can... just ask away.

One thing that might be useful to SLR users is the lenses page. While it is Nikon specific, the principles apply to Canon too:
Digital-Images "Lenses" page

Ron Reznick
http://digital-images.net
http://trapagon.com


[Edited on 6-7-2002 by RonReznick]
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Old Jun 7, 2002, 12:26 PM   #2
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LOL, what’s Newbie know about lenses?
Well let me start with a question. Canon has the 70-200l f4.0, how much of a problem would it be to handhold at 200mm? I would assume the 70-200l IS f2.8 would be a much better choice for my shaky hands.
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Old Jun 7, 2002, 1:16 PM   #3
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Tom,
I've used the stablized version from a boat on a blustery in the middle of San Francisco Bay on full zoom and I can tell you that image stabilization is great. I used it with a D30, D60 and 1D, and especially with all those pixels on the D60, its really helps to keep the shakes out. I was getting all sorts of shots that I never would have gotten without IS.

On bright days outside, on stable ground, its not a big problem to handhold the 200, but when it gets a little darker I really like the IS. Remember that on the D60, that 200 is 200 x 1.6 (sensor size multiplier) = 320 35mm eqiv.

enjoy,

-roger
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Old Jun 7, 2002, 3:34 PM   #4
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Default Handholding longer lenses

Hi Tom,

Yeah... guess I was a newbie last night

re: hand-holding *any* lens, essentially it is going to be easier with a solid hold, but a safe way of assessing the likelihood of a crisp shot is to check the shutter speed. If there is enough light for a shutter speed of 1/focal length, you are pretty sure of minimizing motion blur. Anything slower than that generally requires a pretty solid hold. I think that in most circumstances you could hold the 70-200/4 at 1/160-1/200 safely. If you want to try for a shot in more marginal light, try this hold and take a sequence of three or four shots -- you can pretty much count on clean shots at 1/100-1/125 at 200mm, and a fair percentage at 1/60.
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Old Jun 7, 2002, 6:21 PM   #5
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Roger, I have the 100-400L IS (640mm effective) and just love it. My understanding is the 70-200L f2.8 and f4 are very sharp lenses but the f2.8/IS version is over twice the price.

I think you answered my question Ron, it seems the f4 is manageable. I have to keep the shutter speed up on the 100-400 even with the IS to get sharp shots. I guess another option would be a primer.

Thanks Again
Tom
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Old Jun 8, 2002, 12:16 PM   #6
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Default Question for Tom...

Hi Tom,
I can see why the 70-200 2.8 would be helpful, whether stabilized or not, but it seems the 70-200 F4 would be nearly a complete overlap for your 100-400 IS (except for the small range from 70-100mm). The 100-400 IS at 200 is giving you close to the same f stop (4.5 versus 4.0) and really only jumps to f 5.6 at greater than 250mm... It seems that you wouldn't gain all that much unless you get the 2.8 version. With the 2.8 I've never had a problem hand holding (mine isn't stabilized) under nearly any situation with the D30 and 1D...

Best regards,

Lin
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Old Jun 10, 2002, 9:10 AM   #7
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I enjoy taking pics of birds. I have an Oly C-2100 UZ, my first digital camera. When the bird is at the end of a branch with the sky as a backround the bird is just a silhouette. What are my options for a better shot?
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Old Jun 10, 2002, 4:00 PM   #8
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Default EV compensation

You really have two choices here: either use spot metering if your subject is greater in size than your spot sensor, or push the exposure using + EV compensation, or both. The sky will blow but you'll get the bird.
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Old Jun 22, 2002, 6:26 AM   #9
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Default Alternative handling of small backlit subjects:

Ron,
For people that shoot in RAW format, I discovered a good technique out of desperation. I do lots of birds at the end of branches against the sky. With the Coolpix the spot metering did the job, but with the D60 it doesn't.

Using levels, curves and/or gamma adjustments only brings the noise to horrible levels. However, before consigning a bunch of D60 pix to the abyss, I tried converting them with +1.5 - +2 EV of compensation, using YarcPlus. Not only did the birds come up nicely, but the sky didn't get blown out. In addition, the noise level seems to be no worse than in my other D60 pix at the same ISO rating.




[Edited on 6-22-2002 by WalterK]

[Edited on 6-22-2002 by WalterK]
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Old Jun 29, 2002, 10:31 PM   #10
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I shoot nothing but RAW. I find that bringing up a subject out of the shadows starts to get noisy (to my standards) at about +2/3 EV, but you can go +1 EV with more than acceptable quality. I also do levels/curves/gamma adjustments to most images as a matter of course. There are few perfect shots...

I do all of this work in Capture (the RAW processor), not Photoshop.
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