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Old Nov 19, 2006, 4:53 AM   #1
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Rollei db60 - HELP

digital camera

Image is getting Blurr in auto mode. Is it defect?

the picture is getting blurred while taking a very slightly moving pictures in auto mode. Is it defect? please help me in finding this & prove it...

When sent for service for the first time, they replaced with new camera. As the new camera is again with same defect, now Company persons say to use sport mode whereflash is alwaysON. According to manualusesport mode for capturing fast moving objects.

In short, with this camera

It is immpossible to take picture of a very slightly moving object with noflash and without blurr.

for example...taking pictures in normal daily life scenarios.
I would expect in Auto mode, picture should not get blurred in above scenarios like other cameras

I strongly believe this is defect....please share your views...

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Old Nov 19, 2006, 8:51 AM   #2
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Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
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It's very unlikely that there is anything wrong with your camera.

With the vast majority of non-DSLR camera models, you're going to need to use your flash indoors. Otherwise, you'll get blurry photos.

Taking photos indoors without a flash or tripod is tough without going to a model with higher available ISO speeds, coupled with a bright lens. Your model goes up to ISO 400.

Three things control how long the shutter needs to stay open for proper exposure:

Lighting - a typical "well lit" home interior at night will have an EV (Exposure Value, which is one way light is measured) of around 6, which is quite dim to a camera. Some interiors may have even lower light than this.

Aperture - This is how bright your lens is. Think of the aperture as being like a pupil in your eye. In dim light, the lens aperture opens up wider to let in more light. But, it can only go so wide (f/2.8 on your camera if you don't zoom in any, or f/4.8 if zoomed in to the maximum zoom setting).

ISO speed - This represents how sensitive the film or sensor is to light. Each time you double the ISO speed, the camera can use shutter speeds twice as fast for the same aperture and lighting. This is the same thing as the old ASA ratings for film.

See this handy online Exposure Calculator to get a better idea of how this works (and the same principles apply to both film and digital). Note that Film Speed in the calculator is the same thing as ISO speed in your Rollei.


Depending on how much a subject is moving, you could need shutter speeds of 1/500 second or faster to stop motion blur. If a subject is perfectly still, you could get by with much slower shutter speeds. But, if they're too slow, you'll also get blur from camera shake. I've got lots of photos of subjects using shutter speeds as slow as 1/10 second. But, for every one good photo, there are many blurry ones with shutter speeds that slow.

The rule of thumb is that shutter speed should be 1/focal length to stop blur from camera shake. So, if you're zoomed into a 50mm zoom setting, you'd want shutter speeds of 1/50 second or faster. If zoomed into a 100mm zoom setting, you'd want shutter speeds of 1/100 second or faster, etc.

This is only a rule of thumb, and some people hold a camera steadier than others. But, without a tripod, you'll probably have blur from camera shake with most non-DSLR camera models like yours, even if you're shooting stationary subjects.

The wider the available aperture a camera has, the faster the camera can expose the image. Aperture, as expressed in f/stop, is a ratio between the focal length of the lens and the aperture iris opening. Smaller f/stop numbers are larger apertures (letting in more light to the film or sensor).

The lens in your Rollei has a largest available aperture of f/2.8 on it's wide end (least apparent magnification). This is typical for most compact cameras.

If you zoom in to it's longest focal length (most apparent magnifcation), the largest available aperture drops down to f/4.8. f/2.8 (wide zoom position) is approximately 3 times as bright as f/4.8 (where you'd be at zoomed in much). So, staying on the wide end of the lens (don't zoom in any more than needed), will help in low light. Also, camera shake is magnified as you zoom in more. So, staying on the wide end of the lens helps out with blur from camera shake, too.

Your camera's Auto ISO speed probably won't go above ISO 200 (since higher ISO speeds give you more noise/grain). That's also typical of most compact cameras. You can set it manually to ISO 400 if desired (which will give you shutter speeds about twice as fast). But, that will add noise/grain to your images, and it still may not be high enough to stop motion blur from subject movement.

Basically, in a typical home lighting, shutter speeds are going to be too slow for shooting a non-stationary subject without a flash with this type of camera using it's default settings.

This is not unique to your camera. It's going to be true for MOST cameras.

If you stayed on the wide end of the lens (don't zoom in any), and set your ISO speed to 400 (which will have more noise/grain), you might be able to get shutter speeds up to around 1/30 second in a well lit interior at night.

If your subjects are relatively still, you might be able to get some keepers that way. But, if they're moving, you'll get motion blur.

That's why the camera has a flash. ;-)

Using a flash is your best bet for a moving subject indoors.

BTW, there are some pretty good tools like like Neat Image, Noiseware or Noise Ninja that can be used to help reduce the appearance of noise when higher ISO speeds are needed (and all 3 products have free and/or trial versions available). So, feel free to try setting your camera to ISO 400 (which will give you faster shutter speeds).

But, if you want to take photos of non-stationary subjects indoors without a flash (and a well lit interior is low light to a camera), you'll need a model capable of much higher ISO speeds, combined with a bright lens.

The models in this category are dSLR type cameras. Most can go up to around ISO 1600 (allowing shutter speeds 4 times as fast as your camera would get at ISO 400 for the same lighting and aperture). But, the kit lenses are usually too dim for good photos indoors without a flash. So, you'd probably want to buy a brighter lens to go along with a dSLR.

See the Digital SLR models here:


For indoor use without a flash, you'll want a lens capable of maintaining f/2.8 throughout their focal range at a mininum. One example would be the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8:


There are many lenses that can maintain f/2.8 throughout their focal range. That was only one example. But, a brighter lens will be larger, heavier and more expensive compared to the "kit" lenses available with most DSLR models.

But, if light is low, f/2.8 may not be bright enough either, even with much higher ISO speeds. Then, you'd want to go with a brighter prime (non-zoom) lens. I sometimes shoot with a Konica Minolta Maxxum 5D using a Minolta 100mm f/2 (twice as bright as f/2.8, which is your camera's largest aperture if you don't zoom in any ) using ISO 3200 (8 times as sensitive to light as ISO 400, which is your camera's highest ISO speed setting), and still can't get shutter speeds fast enough to stop motion blur in one of the low light clubs in my area. That combination gives me shutter speeds 16 times as fast as you'd be able to get at your widest zoom setting.

Every camera will have limitations. That's why you have a flash.

In a non-DSLR model, the Fuji F10/F11/F20/F30/F31FD models have much higher available ISO speeds compared to most. So, you might be able to get by without using a flash with them. But, with the vast majority of non-DSLR cameras, if you don't use a flash in less than optimum lighting, you'll get blurry photos.

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Old Nov 19, 2006, 6:49 PM   #3
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Short Answer:

What you're seeing is probably normal. Hardly a week goes by that someone isn't complaining about blurry photos from their new [insert brand/model here] camera, when they turn off the flash in less than optimum lighting.

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Old Nov 20, 2006, 4:15 PM   #4
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Thanks for your explaination. and I have some other points to share after reading your explaination.

I have used "Praticka Dpix540Z" but I never had such problems and is having same specs. like focal length, speed ISO100 200 400 etc

Here I am not able to takeeven single picture ofa very slight movements(in various positions very close/very far etc...), it is blurr always.

In themanual, it is mentionedthatuse "SPORT" mode for fast moving pictures.

First time, when I sent my camera for service, they have replaced with new one.

Second time, they say its with model and have talked to Rollei incharge persons.Now they say that one can take only still pictures in AUTO mode, which is not mentioned in manual at all. This is so surprising for me...

I would expect this is a basic feature of a camera that it should be able to capture atleast some movingpictures in auto mode.

please share yourviewson below points..

1. They have to clearly mentionin manualsaying that in Auto mode, only still pictures can be taken. sothat things will be clear to everyone. After 2 times of service if they come back and say such things, which is mentioned no where.....whatshould beour reaction?

2.Also when other company model with the same specs can do this, Can we call this modelisaccording to specs?

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Old Nov 21, 2006, 7:22 AM   #5
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Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
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Post some samples of what you're referring to and I'll be glad to take a look and offer an opinion.

But, unless you take photos of the same subjects in the same conditions, you can't really draw any conclusions on how one camera compares to another.

You're most likely problem is that the shutter speeds were too slow, causing motion blur.

You can have some meteirng differences between models. But, with cameras of similar specifications, shutter speeds will be roughly the same. Only 3 factors impact the shutter speed a camera will use (and that applies to both film and digital): Aperture, Lighting, ISO speed.

Sometimes a user can hold one camera steadier compared to another (due to size, weight, ergonomics, tension in shutter button and more). So, there's probably nothing wrong with the camera.

Chances are, the conditions were not identical when you took the images. The Human Eye adjusts quite well to changing light levels. A camera's lens does not.

Feel free to post some problem photos and I'll be happy to look at them and see what I think (i.e, are your results normal or not). But, chances are, they are normal.

Cameras are not magic. If light is not good enough, they will all have limitations. In good light outdoors, most of the subcompact models will do just fine. Indoors, they won't (almost none of them, unless you use a flash or tripod, and a flash will be needed for moving subjects).

To post photos here, you'll need to downsize them to around 640x480 first. You'll want to use a tool that keeps the camera settings intact (it's in an image's header).

I'd recommend using Irfanview (it's free):


To use it for resizing, simply open an image using File>Open.

Then, use the menu choice you'll find for Image>Resize/Resample

Click the "Set New Size" box, make the width around 640 pixels wide, with the "Preserve Aspect Ratio" box checked (so that it keeps the same dimensions of width to height) and click OK.

Then, use the File>Save As menu choice and give it a new name so that you don't overwrite your original. I'd make sure the file type is JPEG, and set the Image Quality slider you'll see to around 84% to make sure it's small enough for posting (images will need to about 240KB or smaller for posting here).

Leave all boxes that are already checked by default still checked (you'll want to make sure the EXIF is retained so that we can see settings).

Then, when you're making a post here, you'll see a Browse button under the text entry screen that you can use to attach a downsized image.

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