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Old Nov 12, 2004, 2:10 PM   #1
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I have mixed results in low light, but I think it's more a matter of my still learning. But I went to a friend's son's play, to take photos for him. We were way back on row M, and I used 12x zoom, no flash. I thought they came out well.

http://yellowjacket.smugmug.com/gallery/267823


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Old Nov 15, 2004, 1:17 AM   #2
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I too am trying to learn the best way to shoot low-light.. had a disaster today when I went to a party indoors .. used the presets with flash and some without and just made a mess... was utterly disappointed... Im sure had I a Tripod I may have done a better job...



My question : Did you use a tripod .. If not .. what about the IOS mode was it 1 or 2
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Old Nov 15, 2004, 5:50 AM   #3
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Given the parameters and conditions in which you took those shots I must say that they are superb. The FZ cameras continue to do more than what most anyone had expected a camera to do. Best in its class.Too bad something like this wasn't around in my day as a kid.

Thanks for sharing. The play looked like a smashing success. I myself would have gone to it if it were anywhere near me.

Tom
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Old Nov 16, 2004, 6:20 PM   #4
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Thanks for the compliment! Yeah, I was very impressed by the play as well.

To answer the above questions, I didn't have a tripod (I was sitting in the middle of the row, so that wasn't really possible, though a monopod might be a good investment!).

What I do, when I'm shooting a low-shutter shot, is use the 2-second timer, to minimize my moving the camera when the picture is actually taken. Also, in most of these, I used spot zoom, since I was so far back, and zoomed in completely.

I'm still not completely confident in low-light shots. This past weekend, we went camping with boy scouts, and it was overcast the whole weekend (rained a lot!). I got some decent shots, but most weren't very good.

In those cases, I'm sure I drive people nuts, because I take so many shots, many different ways. I take some with no flash (slow shutter) - these give good color, but blur is an issue.

Then I take some with the Sunpak 383, trying to bounce and use manual settings (because I want ISO 50 and frequently a different aperture than 2.8. If bounce isn't working (i.e. too dark), I try direct, but that can often blow out.

Then I try the internal flash, if the people are close enough. That's my least favorite option, though it may be me.

I will say this, though - I get better low-light shots than my friends, who have different cameras. The one guy who does get great shots has the Nikon 5700, but then I get some great shots he can't, too.
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Old Nov 17, 2004, 12:06 AM   #5
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Nice pictures!I love the fz10!I have been trying to take picture indoors atvolleyball games. The exposure time is really what has been frustrating for me.I took pics at 1/13 and 1/20shutter speed last week,definitely too slow... I'll try using a faster speed at this weeks' game, maybe 1/30 or 1/40. I didn't use any tripod or flash.

Original pic:

http://home.mycybernet.net/~rogerho/vball/P1000452.JPG

Same pic after processing with Paintshop pro9 (enhance photo function) and Neat Image

http://home.mycybernet.net/~rogerho/...2_filtered.JPG


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Old Nov 17, 2004, 10:36 PM   #6
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Wow, that's better than I'd do, with that kind of motion. I've seen where some people get great indoor basketball shots (search on the forum, I think there were some threads here a few months back).

Good job! Keep experimenting with ISO and shutter speed, that's what I do. Well, that, and I check this forum for tips. :-)
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Old Nov 18, 2004, 12:20 PM   #7
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This is for Roge: I would suggest you manually white balance when you get to a game (use a white t-shirt, or a white wall). Also, use a monopod. There are a lot of tripod where the center comes out and becomes a monopod. Of course a tripod would be better, but if you are in the bleachers, try the monopod idea. And I am sure you know this but using a flash would really stop the action. And if you are a good distance away you will need a flash that is powerful.Mostly everyone in this forum uses the Sunpack 383. It is pretty powerful
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Old Nov 18, 2004, 6:43 PM   #8
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Thanks for the suggestions about the white balance, I was actually going to try that as soon as I get my kodak grey card.

As for the flash, I didn't use it because this would simply annoyed players on the court. Imagine if you're a player going for a shot only to have someone'sflash blind you!This happens even if the flash is pointing up. Flash is banned at most sporting events, like tennis tournaments.

As for the tripod, I'm not sure how this can help me. Keep in mind that I'm taking pictures of fast moving subjects...So theexposure has to bereally quick.


anyways I'm still experimenting... Love my FZ!!!
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Old Nov 18, 2004, 8:12 PM   #9
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as far as those grey cards are concerned....I was dating a pro photographer when I was in design school. He was making fun of my friends in the photo dept. for carrying around a grey card. B/c you can use your hand a whol lot easier. And most people carry their hand with them. Your hand--palm side--should be exactly one stop different from the grey card. The grey card is Zone 5 and your hand is zone 6. So, meter on your hand (you would put your hand in front of the subject and try to keep the angle of your hand the same as the subject for similar reflection). You meter on your hand, then you open up your fstop by one complete stop making it brighter. Or you make your shutter speed slower by one stop. Remember, you want to let more light into the camera by one stop because the camera will take your hand and try to make it darker by one stop, compensate, and you have yourself one portable grey card.

I know this camera's fstop moves in increments so here are full fstops (an increment of one full stop): f2.8 f4, f5.6, f8. Or a full stop would be opening up the fstop usingthree increments (clicking thedown button three times - never click it up b/c that would darken the photo). If you are doing it with shutter speeds, you would half the shutter speed to get it one stop brighter. So if you are metering your hand and get 1/400, you would take the shot at 1/200 (and then you wouldn't touch the fstops). If you meter your hand at 1/60 you would shoot your subject at 1/30.

A grey card is a good thing to have, but not to carry around. If you have a photo store near you that sells them you can check to make sure your hand is exactly one stop brighter than the card.Then you don't need to buy the card.Remember to hold the card as the same angle as your hand when metering. I was one of those silly people who bought the card b/c my Photo 1 teacher told me to. If you do get one it is white on one side. But you could just white balance on a t-shirt, a white wall, etc. Or bring a white piece of paper. I would get one of those extra bright pieces of paper (I use the Kodak bright white Inkjet paper for my printer- that would work perfectly, and you can fold it up). Those grey cards are 8X10, unless they make them smaller, I have been out of school for about 12 years so maybe they have smaller grey cards now. Good luck!
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