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Old Aug 9, 2004, 4:14 PM   #1
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Look at the Panasonic hood it measures about 1and 3/8ths inches deep. Notice the flair, very flat black surface and concentric rings on the inside. The rings are not for show they break up the stray light rays that bounce off the smooth flat black surface, which is a compromise. This unit is designed correctly but only protects from ambient light up to 280mm. Panasonic did not make a bigger hood, because it would not fit in the box and people would not like to have a big thing hanging off the front. Therefore, it is a compromise because an additional function of "not too big" was added in. I believe they have a two-stage hood on the FZ20.

Lens hood making

Go to a store that sells fresh deli products. Ask them to sell you two sets of containers and lids. Chinese restaurants are another good source. The container I used was 5 3/16" tall, with a 4 ½" diameter top and 3 and 9/16" bottom. There are different grades of plastic and different style lids in use. I found that the cheaper version works best. The better ones are more brittle and tend to crack when being cut. The lid, which came from another store, only attaches to the outer circumference and does not have an inner grip.

Once you cut your hood and found the right combination of pieces go back and buy three more of each lid and container.

Remove all lens rings and adapter from the FZ10, place the barrel against the inverted container, and trace the outline on the plastic. Make sure there is sufficient room for the hood to clear the male threads. The hood is connected to the camera by placing it over the exposed male threads and screwing on the adapter to hold it in place. You may not get the cut correctly on the first try and that is the reason for the extra containers and lids. The second trip is to stock up for future construction.

Before spay painting be sure to thoroughly scuff the plastic finish inside and out. The inside is covered with a black paint and has a special black photographic flocking material attached. The process is to first coat the inside of the container with the first coat and let completely dry for one day. This paint has a shinny finish and is only used as primer surface. Apply thin layer and allow 24-48 hours to try. When dry, scuff up the finish so that final flat black spray paint will adhere. Cover the cut end with a piece of paper and completely tape over it with painters tape.

To attach the flocking you will need the following items in easy reach: half a portion of special flocking material, a lid that only attaches around the circumference and flat black spray paint. Quickly spray the inside of the container with a thin layer, making sure to wet the entire surface. Quickly dump in half of the flocking material, place the lid on and make your self a martini for about 5 minutes. There will be plenty of left over flocking so find something to pour it into for subsequent use. Do not do anything else except dump out the bulk of unused material, remove the taped end and let the hood and flocking dry for 24- 48 hours. After the drying period, it is necessary to remove all the flocking that is not completely bonded to the surface. The depth of the flocking is not important and you want to remove all the loose or partially attached flocking. This stuff is so fine that it almost resembles a powder and will get into everything. To dislodge the loose flocking, I used a technique of moderately banging the large end against a white paper on a flat surface. I followed this with a mild use of a vacuum cleaner. This was process was repeated multiple times over a two day period until there was no more residue.

To paint the outside stuff the inside with a piece of black fabric and install the hood used in the shake process. Spray the outside with a black or silver plastic paint. This can be used as a primer however a mild sanding with a fine steel wool may achieve a desired effect. You will have to do this anyway so you may like the results. I could not find a silver flat plastic paint so the black plastic paint was applied, the finished toughly scuffed and silver applied. I held the can 20 inches away from the hood starting the spray off the hood and passing over quickly. It gave me a misty finish.

Remove the lid, contents, let dry for 24 –48 hours and re-vacuum the inside. To make the hood cap take a new lid that only attaches around the circumference and with a sharp knife make three evenly space slices in the gripping part to reduce excess tension when opening and closing. Paint the outside lid and sides with the black plastic paint and let dry. Spray a big blob of black plastic paint on a piece of clean disposable surface and with a small brush or cotton swap paint the outside rim and front of the hood.

I keep my hood on all the time during daytime hours, do not use a lens cap, and use a cap-keeper with elastic band attached to the big cap.

You may elect to make a smaller hood. Another option is to acquire a filter ring from a broken filter, epoxy the ring to the rear of the hood, and screw it on to the filter. My hood weighs 46.5 grams, which is filter weight; a shallower one attached to the filter would weigh less. Therefore, I do not foresee a problem with weight.


I have used the hood for one month and my knuckles touch the inside wall when screwing on filters or the adapter. There are no signs of wear but I suppose there will be eventually. I have plenty of material left over to make more.

When traveling, I place a clean unused container inside the hood place my telephoto lens inside with packing material and put the cap on.

Here is your contact for the flocking. Ask for photographic baffle and order two packets of flocking it is enough for mistakes and multiple hoods.



Happy hood making.
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