Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digital Cameras (Point and Shoot) > Panasonic / Leica

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Jan 1, 2005, 3:26 PM   #11
Senior Member
PeterP's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,396

My biggest point has already been stated a few times, Shoot, Shoot lots, then shoot some more :blah:.

Also keep notes on settings and lighting setups, keep track of what worked and especially what did not as well, helps stop you from repeating errors.
PeterP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 1, 2005, 3:29 PM   #12
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 10

Let me put an example of the 3rd 'tip' in my post above.

In the picture here I tried to point to the special quality of grapes that were left from the summer and became transparent to light (they acquired an orange tint in this case when light entered their 'skin' from the environment. So I focused on the transparent grapes (or what was left of them...).

Attached Images
uhurvitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 1, 2005, 6:06 PM   #13
Senior Member
fmoore's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,116

1. Always use the view finder to frame your shots. That keeps the camera close to your faceand maximizes stabilization. Lock your elbows into your sides. If possible, brace the camera against something, particularly for high zoom shots.

2.Get an add-on close-up lens. The macro capabilty of the fz series is essentially nonexistent beyond 3x zoom. Attaching even a +1 diopter lens will give macro capabilty throughout the zoom. (See http://www.ishots.net/fz1-2faq/fz1macros.htm) Stay away from the +1, +2, +4 close-up sets. They are single element lens that give clear focus at the center but vey poor focus towards the edges. Dual element lensflatten thefocus out to the edges. The most popular are +3 diopter and, though different in diameter, vary little in quality. Nikon 4t and 6t; Olympus b-macro and mcon40; Canon 500d are some common ones.

3. Use a folding mirror toframe ground level shots. It takes a little getting used to since eveything is upside down and movement is in the opposite directionfrom whatyou wouldexpect but it works.

fmoore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jan 1, 2005, 6:38 PM   #14
Senior Member
Mag's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 734

I love Fmoore's idea about the folding mirror gonna hafta get one of those.

I still have no clue what im doing so i dont really have any tips except I just thought of this one.

If your experimenting with different settings on the same scene you could take pics with audible messagesembedded in the pic itself. That way when your reviewing them youcouldhear your own notesof the settings that were changed/used. Just another option to on screen displays and exif data comparison. Under certian circumstances it may prove easier.
Mag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2005, 12:12 PM   #15
Senior Member
trooplewis's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 578

Just to bump, great topic...
trooplewis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2005, 12:53 PM   #16
Senior Member
suze's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,338

:G Thanks for bumping this one up - I had missed it the first time and there's lots of great tips here! keep em coming ! :G:G
suze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2005, 3:33 PM   #17
Senior Member
Treemonkey's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 628

1- If possible avoid f2.8 and stay more in the mid range as Nick indicated, I havent had any issues with f8 though.

2- Read, Read, Read. No only this forum but good old books. I started on a simple digital photography book then I got a macro book and now im on the Ansel Adams series. If you want to learn about photography read some of Ansel Adams books they have an amazing amount of information in them. While they are old and digital didnt exist back then the basic principals of photography havent changed. I have learnt vast amounts by reading just a few books, you will be amazed by what you will gain.

3- If you are going to show people your photos only show the best ones. That way people will think you are really good!

Treemonkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2005, 4:22 PM   #18
Senior Member
Stoney79's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 314

All the technical things have been mentioned. So here aresome things about the picture composition:
  1. Never put the subject into the middle of the picture. If possible, it should be located at the golden section. Or justimagine two lines that divide the pictureinto three thirds. The subject should be at one of the lines. [/*]
  2. Always look for some interesting unusualperspectives. Shooting a subject from a normal perspective will produce a boring picture, because it will show the subject just the way we know it. But the viewer should think something like: "Wow, I've never seen it that way before!" [/*]
  3. Show all of the subject or just a detail. For example, if you shoot a flower, all of the flower should be on the picture, don't cut off a petal. Or just show a detail like the pistil.[/*]
Stoney79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2005, 4:35 PM   #19
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 41

Thanks for the bump as well. I hate asking questions as a newbie and I think I got a lot of answers especially from Nick's post. Ijust want to get some shots of my favorite place (golf course - go figure) that has some great ocean with distant mountain backdrops. NowI just have to review the bracketing info and I should be set.


ejm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2005, 5:39 PM   #20
Senior Member
TimvdVelde's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 395

1. When shooting moving or difficult objects.. always burst at high speed. Then afterwards.. select the best photo.

2. Always lowest ISO

3. Postprocessing is half of the quality of your picture

4. Try to learn your settings.. when remembering situations and shutterspeeds, it's easy to go manual and adjust the settings the best way depending on the situations. I know that at sunlight.. shooting birds at 12x zoom.. I need 1/320 at least.. so I go manual and try to get the best lighting

5. ALWAYS look at your histogram.. (turn it on on your display). Because thats the best way to see what is on your pictures.... way better than the LCD. When you have a good histogram but a dark photo.. leveling ALWAYS results in a good photo. When having a nice light photo and a bad histogram.. you have overexposed area's which can not be undone...

6. don't drop your cam
TimvdVelde is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:18 AM.