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Old Nov 15, 2006, 11:51 PM   #21
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Hmmm - Hope someone can come up with a reason. I thought it might have been that the two more yellow ones were slightly underexposed and tried just using the "exposure" slider (which lightens the higher mid-tones without changing the white balance) to see if it would make a difference. It did take out some of the yellow, but not all of it (could be part of the answer but perhaps not all of it). The only time I've had this problem was when the camera was on AWB.
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Old Nov 16, 2006, 2:39 AM   #22
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Discussion about the OK button for focus vs manual.

Manual will work too - the little green hexagon goes on when the image is in focus. Set the focus to the OK button (my default) or do it manually - blast away and the subject can move throughout the frame and it will be in focus. If you are using the multiple focus spots - the computer in the camera determines what it will focus on - I know what I want to be in focus - so I make the decision. When using the shutter button anddepending on how you have the camera set up (continuous or single focus) every time you frame a shot the camera will re-focus.

If you want the cameras computer to make your decisions for you - go ahead - but you will find more disappointment than success. The camera will make good decisions about 90% of the time - my goal as a photographer is to live in that 10% - that's why I want to try my hand with new subjects.

Back in the old manual days (before autofocus, electronic controlled shutters and built in autowinders) this is the process I followed.

Locate the "Thing" I wanted to be sharp in the image. - Focus on it -- using the split image, little circle of diamonds (can't remember their real name) and ground glass.

Look at the distance and decide on the f-stop. Use the depth of field markings on the lens to determine if the focus distance was at the front, middle or rear of the depth of field (modern lenses don't have these marks anymore - much to my displeasure).

Set the f-stop or use it as a guide to pick an appropriate shutter speed.

Now - frame the shot - the focus spot does not have to be in the center of the frame (remember the rule of thirds).

Blast away ---- Note: the shot is framed, the subject enters the frame what ever -- after I have set the focus, f-stop and shutter.

You can do the same thing - using either aperture preferred or shutter preferred and let the computer do its thing. But if the camera will attempt to focus for each shot --> frustration as you fight the autofocus as it tries to determine if the point of focus is the subject you want or the bright clock in the background. Autofocus is like a moth - drawn to bright shiny things. You should be making the decisions - use the camera to make the split second decisionssuch as aperture and shutter speed.

Live in the 10% - the rush is worth it.


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Old Nov 16, 2006, 3:36 AM   #23
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I would follow Mtngal's suggestion and get a white or gray card and try setting the colour balance manually to suit the particular lighting set up for each gym.

I did suggest using the jpeg format, because you get more shots per card, but if you shot some in RAW format it is easier to adjust the colour temperature in post processing to compensate for unexpected colour casts.

I just found this device to help set white balance:

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Old Nov 16, 2006, 11:04 PM   #24
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Shoot raw and don't worry about WB. You can still get 3 shot bursts with raw.

Looks like the DA50-200 should work for you, though. Keep posting your results.

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Old Nov 17, 2006, 4:22 AM   #25
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My Kodak grey card is white on one side and grey on the other.

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Old Nov 17, 2006, 7:57 AM   #26
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Guess I'll have to find another camera store. Thanks for letting me know that they make such things.
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 8:34 AM   #27
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You will probably find that all the lights in the gym are all slightly different tubes and probably different temp. - and all flickering very quickly. I had the same problem a while back shooting a rodeo (although at 5 fps with a 20D) but it was going from a nice warm colour to a horrible green cast, whereas all 3 of your images are OK interms of colour cast form the lights
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 9:29 AM   #28
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billkater wrote:
Here are 3 picts i took at the practice hall. All was taken in a row. Why are the colors all different?

It has fluorescent bulbs in the hall.
Why did two of them have so much yellow in them. To see the specs on my camera settings go here.


Each picture has it.



PS. I was using the Pentax DA 50-200mm

actually, all the info is with each image via a rt click if you have a program to let you view it.
Make = PENTAX Corporation
Model = PENTAX K100D
Orientation = top/left
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
Software = K100D Ver 1.00
Date Time = 2007-11-15 19:17:35
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 602
PrintIM Data = 352 Byte

Exposure Time = 1/250"
F Number = F4.5
Exposure Program = Manual
ISO Speed Ratings = 3200
Exif Version = Version 2.21
Date Time Original = 2007-11-15 19:17:35
Date Time Digitized = 2007-11-15 19:17:35
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Pattern
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 68mm
Maker Note = 51200 Byte
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 3008
Exif Image Height = 2000
Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 52242
Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor
File Source = DSC
Scene Type = A directly photographed image
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Manual exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Focal Length In 35mm Film = 102mm
Scene Capture Type = Normal
Contrast = Normal
Saturation = Normal
Sharpness = Normal
Subject Distance Range = Distant view

Interoperability Index = ExifR98
Interoperability Version = Version 1.0

[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 52368
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 4411

Thumbnail = 160 x 120

bill, watch out-- another 111 pix and you cross the 1000 shot threshold


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Old Nov 17, 2006, 11:25 AM   #29
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More on the focusing with the OK button.

I prefer manual focus too, but my manual focusing skills are still a work in process. About 30% of the time the manual focus isn't quite what I expected.

This is improving and will improve more, but in the meantime it's helpful to see what the AF recommends, and vary from there if I want something different. So when focusing in advance on a piece of equipment or a spot on the floor, I turn on the AF, half press to set focus, turn off the AF, and then vary focus manually according to taste. Like the admiral who asks the staff for a recommendation, and then does whatever he wants anyway. :G

It looks likePDL does the same thing, except instead of half-pressing and turning the AF off,he hooks the AF to the OK button, and then pushes the OK button whenever he wants to see what the computer thinks. I can see how thismight be easier as an interface issue. But is there any reason relating the shot itself why focusing with the OK button would be better than focusing with a half press, and then turning AF off with the switch?

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Old Nov 17, 2006, 12:41 PM   #30
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i really feel out of place. out of 11 lenses i only have the kit lens that auto focuses.

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