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Old Jun 14, 2008, 4:07 PM   #1
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[img]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Eigenaar/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-3.jpg[/img] Some observations, some remarks, some things I don't understand.

  • set exposure in steps of ½ gives you a ev range of -3, +3 , change is to steps of 1/3 and you get a range going from -2 to +2. Just don't understand why the -/+ range has to change depending on the size of the steps.

  • catch in focus – normally called focus trap. – on the k10d you just use it, now you have to go through the menu to start it. Don't really understand the need to put a setting into the menu for it, on the other hand it seems to work better.

  • high iso, with the K10D I would set the cam on auto focus from 100 – 560, now 1000 looks very usable .

  • this is but a feeling but the AF seems to be a lot more precise and faster

  • D-range: for the few shots I've taken to find out how it works, it leaves me with questions. It works great for blown out highlights but I haven't seen a real difference in the dark areas.

Ok 1 day is a bit short to get everything figured out but for as far as I feel the differences are worth while.

The pictures below are all at iso1000, top two are 1:1 macros - kiron 105mm,
bottom two4:1 macros - kiron 105mm + raynox 250d (4x acromat).

1:1 macros

First one, guess what,

it's a prune that has a small cut on it where it leaks a kind of sugar resin.

Couple of beetles doing ...

4:1 macros

Brown cicade.

a crop at 100% of the eye, dng -> photoshop -> no sharping or any enhancement.

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Old Jun 14, 2008, 6:20 PM   #2
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Cool pictures! The Kiron with the Raynox looks really good. Do you see extra resolution ability with the K20? I would never had figured out what the first one was without you saying - it's odd-looking when you get that close to it!

I don't mind having to go into the menu for focus trap - I don't use it much and I used to find it very frustrating when I was using manual lenses and got everything lined up the way I wanted with the in-focus subject off-center and not be able to take the picture because the camera was still set on AF. I'd jam the shutter and it wouldn't give and it would always take me a second or two to figure out why it wouldn't work. Now I leave the camera set to AF no matter which lens I have on the camera and don't get frustrated. It's nice to have the option where the camera won't lock up if it doesn't think its in focus.

I haven't really read a lot about the focus trap, but I get the idea you can now also use it with AF lenses that have a MF/AF switch on the lens itself, such as the DA50-135. But now that I think of it, it probably worked that way on the K10, too - the switch turning off the AF capability of the lens, making it just like using a manual focus lens and allowing focus trap to work. I assume the new DA*300 has that switch on it?

I think the same thing about the AF. It's not a huge difference, but definitely better than on my old K10.

D-Range does seem to help with the highlights, but as far as dark areas - it introduces more noise. The times I've used it and exposed for the midpoint, all I've gotten in the shadows was extra noise - I think if I had exposed more for the shadows I would have been happier.
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