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Old Oct 7, 2010, 1:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by VTphotog View Post
Just setting your camera to manual exposure will prevent the pre-flash, and let you use the unit as slave. You are most likely going to need an ambient light meter to get the exposure right, or an awful lot of patience.

BTW, the power rating on strobes is usually given in W/s and is a measure of the energy (joules) of the flash. 120 W/s for a time of 1/1000s gives a lighting equivalent of 1200 watts. Not too dim.

Have fun with the gear. Should be fun getting over the learning curve.
Hi Brian,

Setting the camera to M mode will not prevent the preflash, but using a fully manual lens will. Any "A" capable lens will revert the flash to P-TTL automatically, whatever exposure mode you might want to use. I use M mode and AE lock ont the AF point as the easiest way to balance ambient with P-TTL flash and this works fine for me.

The AF 540 FGZ does have an Auto Thyristor mode though, and this or Manual mode will eliminate the preflash, so the slave sensor in the Britek will fire on exposure correctly since there is only the single flash. In Auto mode, you might even be able to utilize some flash exposure automation, but it'll take some experimentation.

I'm not familiar with studio strobes and how they are rated, so thanks for the info. I was just going by reviews on the web, and they stated that this unit wasn't very powerful, so I just went with that. . .but power is always relative. . .

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