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Old Sep 12, 2005, 7:36 AM   #11
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Here is a is collection of mainly moving objects tasken with a DS ,(all the kart photos).


All the above advice on technique is pretty right.

Whe using auto focus in sports mode as I sometimes do I get the camera focussed on the gerenal area of expected action to minimise any time delay in the AF working.

But more and moreI am moving to manual focus.

I just bought a new 200m m prime that has no AF at all for sports work.

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Old Sep 12, 2005, 12:12 PM   #12
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jaynlisa wrote:
A Sigma 28-135mm F2.8-4.0 - pretty good lens, but large. Probably requires lots of power to AF.

I'll try setting my aperture to F8 or F11 to get better DOF and also certainly will try the single point focus thing.
Sometimes - but luckily not very often - I have experienced the same behavior with my Sigma 18-125 mm.

Wonder if its lens or camera related?

BTW I always use single point focus and then re-frame as necessary - I think I should be the one who decides what to focus on, not the camera :-)


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Old Sep 21, 2005, 1:13 PM   #13
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Well, I'm a new D-SLR owner, and also use the *ist DS in low-light with a Sigma Lens. I use a 70-200mm 2.8, with the same batteries as you (Energizer rechargeable 2500mah.) I shoot night high-school football, and my lens is pretty fast to focus. I shoot center-focus, which does make it quicker. I sometimes have the slow-to-focus problem, in crazily low-light areas of the stadium. You might want to try pre-focusing by pressing the shutter down halfway if you can, as this really helps. Try to find a reference point to focus on, because once you're in focus there should be barely any shutter lag.

I dont think the focus is battery related though. My *ist DS focuses just as fine with the rechargable Energizers as the lithiums that it came with.

Good luck with your problem,
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Old Oct 6, 2005, 5:45 PM   #14
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Def set spot focus oncenter spot. Higher batt volt by using Lithium AAs or new CRV3 lith-ion rechargeable might also give more reliability. No AF system is perfect, especially with low light, low contrast subjects. You could always manually focus like the old days!
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Old Oct 19, 2005, 8:17 PM   #15
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Jaynlisa, I've got the very same problem with my DS. When I want to take a shot, when the shutter-release is fully depressed, it hesitates to take the shot....and mostly it takes is a second later which is too late by then. When I'm taking shots of people, they get annoyed that they have to pose for several seconds because the camera just won't take a shot!!!

I upgraded to firmware 1.02 and I've used both Energiser 2500mah and Energiser CRV3 (non-rechargeables) and it still happens. I've even cleaned the contacts and reset all custom settings and still no go. I've even tested a DS on 1.00 firmware showing this same problem.

I find that it does this mainly on low-light scenario, and on AF mode. No matter which AF mode I'm in (Green Mode, Smiley Face, Action, Landscape, Macro) it does it. It has this problem with the flash up too....but I find it randomly hesitates even with the flash up. If I'm on MF mode, no problems at all.

Can someone please advise if this is a problem that Pentax should look at. Seems there are DS's out there with this same problem. Is is from a bad batch ??
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 3:56 AM   #16
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Yes, I've tried nearly everything suggested here and I'm really frustrated at this point. I'm probably going to sell my *ist DS and buy something else.

I love the size of this little dSLR but having it just refuse to take pictures is VERY annoying.

I'll probably go with the new Nikon D200 or wait for the upgrade to the Canon 20D.

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Old Nov 14, 2005, 6:09 AM   #17
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Have you taken either of these Canon or Nikons out and tested them in the same type of environment you are using the DS? ie, sports? I envisage you will have the same problems, they also wont take the picture in AF mode until its focused. Canon's USM lenses may focus a bit faster, but yeh, depending on how you are using it you will end up in the same situation.
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 8:12 AM   #18
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You should be able to sell it on eBay and get back a very large portion of what you paid for it.
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 10:25 AM   #19
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I don't understand why you don't just use manual focus, it will show you when it is in focus in the viewfinder and it will fire the shutter anytime you press the button.

I have a friend with a Canon 20D and he has the same problem in low lilght, and uses manual focus in those situations also.

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Old Nov 14, 2005, 10:26 AM   #20
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Mine wouldn't open the shutter when I first got it. Everything had to be perfect in manual B4 it would oblige. I don't recall what setting had to be changed. It'll shoot just fine now unless it's in auto (rarely) and can't find focus.
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