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Old Jan 19, 2006, 6:12 PM   #11
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Stan wrote: How do you 'save as' or is there a way of 'saving' as is without over-writing the original image?

So far as I know -- at least with PS -- it never overwrites the original file if you choose the Save As option from the File menu and then rename the file.

Some really cautious users prefer to make a copy of any original image they open, close the original and then work on the copy. I've never done this and haven't noticed a problem.

I think that the only way your original gets overwritten is if you choose the Save option when it comes time to close the image.

If this is wrong, somebody set the record straight!

Hey, Stan, at least you have some different strategies for doing your 4x6's. Try 'em and let us know which you like!

Oh, a question for slipe....The only reason I included a downsample step in my second post was that if you end up with more resolution than you need for the 4x6 print, I figured that if the printer used all those pixels anyway, it would just end up wasting ink. Or, if the printer throws out excess pixels, would the printer do a better job of downsampling than PE2 would? What's your take on the situation?

Grant
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 6:55 PM   #12
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granthagen wrote:
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Stan wrote: How do you 'save as' or is there a way of 'saving' as is without over-writing the original image?
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I always use "SaveAS" but then it comes up with JPEG Options 0 to 12 or low med hi max then baseline standard and base,ine optimized and progressive. I really do not know how to handle this step.
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Quote:
So far as I know -- at least with PS -- it never overwrites the original file if you choose the Save As option from the File menu and then rename the file.

Some really cautious users prefer to make a copy of any original image they open, close the original and then work on the copy. I've never done this and haven't noticed a problem.

I think that the only way your original gets overwritten is if you choose the Save option when it comes time to close the image.

If this is wrong, somebody set the record straight!

Hey, Stan, at least you have some different strategies for doing your 4x6's. Try 'em and let us know which you like!
Quote:
I really have not tried. Have to get the steps right.
Quote:

Oh, a question for slipe....The only reason I included a downsample step in my second post was that if you end up with more resolution than you need for the 4x6 print, I figured that if the printer used all those pixels anyway, it would just end up wasting ink. Or, if the printer throws out excess pixels, would the printer do a better job of downsampling than PE2 would? What's your take on the situation?

Grant
I guess if I did not buy the Cannon iP5000 I would not have to go thru all these problems

Stan
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 4:59 PM   #13
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The JPEG quality slider just lets you choose the level of compression that the image is saved at. In this case (other editors might have a different system), 13 gives you the best image quality (the lowest compression) and 0 gives you the lowest image quality (highest level of compression). You can also just enter a value in the Quality text box.

For my own opinion, if you want to save your edited master file as a JPEG, you should save it at the highest quality setting. If you later find that you want a more highly compressed file, it's easy to make a duplicate of your edited master and use the Save As option to save the copy at a different compression.

In the Format Options, select Baseline ("Standard") to use a format recognized by most web browsers, Baseline Opmimized, for optimized color and a slightly smaller file size, or Progressive to display a series of increasingly detailed scans (you specify how many) as the image downloads. Baseline Optimized and Progressive JPEG images are not supported by all web browsers.

Down at the bottom, the Size section just tells you what the file size (in kilobytes) will be if you save the image at the quality setting you have chosen, and it also estimates how long it would take someone using a dial-up modem or a DSL connection to download that image. This is a handy feature if you don't want to tie up Uncle Fred's dial-up connection for 5 minutes while he receives the photo you just e-mailed him. (Or, maybe you do, if Uncle Fred isn't one of your favorite relatives.)

Grant
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 6:09 PM   #14
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granthagen wrote:
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The JPEG quality slider just lets you choose the level of compression that the image is saved at. In this case (other editors might have a different system), 13 gives you the best image quality (the lowest compression) and 0 gives you the lowest image quality (highest level of compression). You can also just enter a value in the Quality text box.

For my own opinion, if you want to save your edited master file as a JPEG, you should save it at the highest quality setting. If you later find that you want a more highly compressed file, it's easy to make a duplicate of your edited master and use the Save As option to save the copy at a different compression.

In the Format Options, select Baseline ("Standard") to use a format recognized by most web browsers, Baseline Opmimized, for optimized color and a slightly smaller file size, or Progressive to display a series of increasingly detailed scans (you specify how many) as the image downloads. Baseline Optimized and Progressive JPEG images are not supported by all web browsers.

Down at the bottom, the Size section just tells you what the file size (in kilobytes) will be if you save the image at the quality setting you have chosen, and it also estimates how long it would take someone using a dial-up modem or a DSL connection to download that image. This is a handy feature if you don't want to tie up Uncle Fred's dial-up connection for 5 minutes while he receives the photo you just e-mailed him. (Or, maybe you do, if Uncle Fred isn't one of your favorite relatives.)

Grant
Thanks Grant! That is what I wanted to learn. So I understand the highest, 12, just saves the image without compressing it any more. Also 12 does not add any pixels by interpolating. Just added a 120g exterior HDD to my system. And found that the iP5000 Cannon has color adjustment controls. I have been getting reddish casts so just maybe I can adjust the image, with profiles,so it prints closer to that printed from PS E2. I have The print from PS E2 almost like the monitor display. To many details. I used to have my film from my Minolta SLR developed and printed without much input from me. Takes me back to my Brownie Box and when I made little contact prints, Oh Well! And did not take 12,000 prints in less that one year.

Thanks again Grant

Stan
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Old Jan 21, 2006, 7:18 PM   #15
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Yeah, Stan, anytime you add a new printer to your system you have to jump through some hoops to get your prints looking like what you see on the monitor. That's why they make calibration utilities.

As to whether, technically speaking, the 12 setting for JPEG quality compresses the photo more than your original or not, I dunno. Different camera makers compress JPEG files differently. You could try an experiment if you are really curious about it: Open an original file from your camera (not one that you have post-processed and resaved) into PE2 and immediately choose Save As. Then give it a new name and save it at a quality level of 12. You can then check out the file size of both pix and see if there's much difference between them.

FYI, I have a Minolta SRT-102. Had it for around 32 years. It still works, but not as well as it used to. (Kinda like me.)

Grant
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