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Old Feb 9, 2009, 8:45 AM   #1
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I took theseon Thursday night (first two) and Saturday afternoon. Still trying to get the white balance and colors correct on the computer but it seems much easier for the shots taken with the extra light in the afternoon.

Comments welcome,

Andy

From Thursday Night 1 [Edited - I took out the bulb next to his head.]

2



From Saturday Afternoon 3

4

5

6


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Old Feb 9, 2009, 3:01 PM   #2
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Hi Andy. I think you're moving in the right direction here.

Shot 1: pretty good shot - reasonably sharp - a bit underexposed and the position of the one light hurts because it's so bright right next to the face - i.e. it distracts the viewer.

shot 2: too mch dead space and focus is soft. You want the subject much closer - it makes using a 50mm lens tough for little kids.

shot 3: great action. shot is underexposed and a bit back focused - i.e. the face of the defender looks sharper than your subject.

shot 4: best shot. Finally got the exposure, WB and focus all on and it shows. Also a great expression to capture.

shot 5: another great shot - good action, good exposure and good focus.

shot 6: good action but now underexposed again and focus not as sharp as 4 & 5. And sharpness/focus is a relative thing. This shot would look sharp except when you have the two previous shots to compare it to. So the sharpness is good in this one, but it's great in 4 & 5.

One comment on colors - as I mentioned a number of these are underexposed. A shot could look like the WB is off but it's really an exposure issue. For instance if you adjusted the exposure in some of these shots in PP you might find the WB to be pretty good. From what I can tell the WB is probably pretty close if the exposure were right. So work on getting your exposures right and you'll see an improvement in the wb and color. Good job!
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 3:17 PM   #3
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John,

Thanks so much for the advice and tips. You and this forum really are helping myself and manyothers.

You are right on about that light next to the face. I may try to edit that out to see what happens.

Got to keep working on that exposure.

I have found that the 50mm 1.4 is much harder (slower) to focus than the 85mm 1.8, even at 2.8 compared to the 1.8. I guess the 85mm is just a better lens maybe but I just can't use it under the basket except for the approaches.I will keep working at it. Maybe by next season I will go for the Canon 2.8 70-200 that so manytalk about.

Thanks again,

Andy


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Old Feb 9, 2009, 3:36 PM   #4
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Andy - stopping down a lens doesn't change it's focus speed. A lens always focuses at it's widest aperture anyway. And yes, the 50mm 1.4 is slower to focus than the 85. Just one of those sad facts. Just like the 85mm 1.2 is slower to focus than the 1.8. Focus speed isn't all about aperture it depends on the design of the focus system. The wider aperture primes put more of a premium on focus accuracy - accuracy at wide apertures comes at the cost of speed.

I'd be careful about a 70-200. Some of these shots are 1600 f2 1/400. That means for the same exposure you'd be shooting ISO 3200. Which your camera is not capable of doing.

I would also recommend for any gym WITHOUT those windows using a manual exposure. Windows make manual exposure tough because they create 'hot spots' on the floor. But you're having difficulty with exposure because you're relying on the camera's metering. That metering will swing based in large part on the jersey colors in the frame and also the background. White jersey or white wall / light source and suddenly you've got an underexposed shot. Also at least one of your shots was ISO 400 1/250 - and it was underexposed.

The lcds on the newer digicams are a GREAT advantage to sports shooters. We used to have to rely on the histogram. But now the lcds are large and sharp enough that you can look at the face of the subject and you should know right off the bat if it's exposed properly. Here's the hint - the face should look just as bright as if it were a shot in good light. DONT think to yourself (it's ok if it's a little dark) - it's not OK. So, if there are no hot spots around the rim shoot manual exposure. If there are then decide to either use manual and accept a couple bad shots that happen in those hot spots or use exposure compensation to compensate for the predominant jersey color and accept when something else in the scene still screws up the metering.
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Old Feb 9, 2009, 4:13 PM   #5
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John,

Wow, there is so much to learn. I was thinkingthe wideraperture and smaller depth of field was causing the camera to have a harder time picking out the right stuff to focus on and thus slowing it down So I was compensating by increasing the DOF with a lower AV. Thanks for the info about that. Now I can just concentrate more on hitting the right spots.

You hit me close to home on that part about the under exposure. I am guilty of taking a look and saying "Oh I can brighten it up at home." I will address this too and try to get it right the first time. However, I know for sure there are times when I will tend to beunderexposed to get the speed I want. HopefullyI will improve in that area.

I am more disappointed about the possible zoom purchase. Maybe down the road a ways I will consider a different body too.

On the bright side I have soccer season coming up soon so maybe I will just do what I can with my Sigma 18-200 F3.5-6.3. At least it will be outside in the daylight.

Again, thanks so much for your help.

Andy


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