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Old Sep 17, 2010, 6:52 AM   #11
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These look much better. There is still room to improve but you are getting better
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 7:09 AM   #12
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No, you don't want to use high speed synch for exactly the reason you stated - flash power is cut dramatically. What you do need to do is get the flash off your camera so you get rid of the "monster eye" affect. A little post processing will help here as well - unsharp mask as well as a little bit of levels work. Post processing is an important part of photography. You want to get as much right in camera as you can, but 95% of all sports images can be improved with a couple seconds of PP work.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 7:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
No, you don't want to use high speed synch for exactly the reason you stated - flash power is cut dramatically. What you do need to do is get the flash off your camera so you get rid of the "monster eye" affect. A little post processing will help here as well - unsharp mask as well as a little bit of levels work. Post processing is an important part of photography. You want to get as much right in camera as you can, but 95% of all sports images can be improved with a couple seconds of PP work.

This is sound advice.. It is key to try and always get it right in the camera, but do not be afraid of post processing.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 11:33 AM   #14
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The second round is definitely an improvement on the first, but if you compare your background to the example John gave, you can see that you are still very close to ambient. I'd probably decrease the ISO to 400 and see if that removes the ghosting while at the same time providing the separation of the subject from the background. As John said, keep getting feeback and use what fits your style.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 2:58 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jschoenr View Post
but if you compare your background. I'd probably decrease the ISO to 400 and see if that removes the ghosting while at the same time providing the separation of the subject from the background.
Looking at JohnG pic. I seen that I could have gone down a notch on ISO.
Now would the same effect work if I went to f/4.8 and left ISO at 800?

Also to measure ambient light on a nikon. You would look at the electronic analog display and see how many stops from the middle?

I'm not afraid of post processing. But when your way off the mark. Post processing turns into a big job with a lot of photos.

Also I've posted on a few forums (Fred Miranda) and I've gotten more help and learned more here than any other place.
Thanks for the tips. It's greatly appreciated.

Last edited by aced19; Sep 17, 2010 at 4:36 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2010, 8:36 PM   #16
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Here is 3 more.
Personally I think there a big improvement from the beginning.
Also I put my flash under camera and it helped.
Please c & c away.





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Old Oct 6, 2010, 8:42 PM   #17
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definitely getting better. Now you need to really tone down the saturation - the red channel is completely blown here. I can relate - my camere had a habit of doing that too (same thing - red channel) - so I had to drop down the in-camera saturation
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Old Oct 6, 2010, 8:49 PM   #18
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JohnG my own fault.
I had my camera set to vivid playing around before game.
I didn't change it back
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