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Old Feb 28, 2006, 12:06 PM   #11
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#3
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Old Feb 28, 2006, 1:10 PM   #12
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#4 at 1600
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Old Feb 28, 2006, 1:33 PM   #13
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urbanaries wrote:
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90% of the bad shots were only bad because it was focusing on the background and not the subject. I tried Center weighting and Center averaging...not much difference. Any suggestions? (I'm gettinga new 50mm by the next game this Saturday).

#1
Center weighted or average are metering options not focus options. So they would not affect the misfocus issues. Were you using a single focus point or all focus points? At wide apertures I prefer to use a single focus point for exactly those reasons. The center focus point on the 20d has a higher degree of accuracy with a 2.8 or faster lens. Given the height of your subjects that should work very well - it's tougher with older subjects to use the center point. The challenge, of course is you have to follow the action keeping the center point on your subject


By the way - I really like #3 pic - good action shot and relatively tight. Also, on your framing or crops you might try it so you have more floor and less 'wall' in the shot. I think it is less distracting that way and will give the players a little more appearance of height. Just a thought.
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Old Feb 28, 2006, 1:44 PM   #14
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Well no wonder it didn't help. Now that you say that I remember! I have always used MF soI never paid it much attention. And under the gun I got corn-fused.

So....how do you change AF points on the 20d? I've tried the main wheel and the back wheel and neither worked.
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Old Feb 28, 2006, 1:51 PM   #15
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I suggest setting the custom function 13 to use the joystick (setting 1 I believe) - this allows you to choose the point you want with the joystick rather than the wheel and you don't need to press the focus point button (the button on the back of the camera in the top right corner - although pressing that button reverts back to auto focus point selection).

The default value for CF 13 requires you to press the focus point button first then select the focus point using the wheel at the top.
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Old Feb 28, 2006, 1:59 PM   #16
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Also, on your framing or crops you might try it so you have more floor and less 'wall' in the shot.

better? What's the philosophy on getting "extra" limbs in the crop besides the subjects? If I cropped the extraguy on theleft out completely, I slice a bit of the ball off. I of coursecould edit him out using the clone stamp....just posing the question.

-UA

PS - Thanks a million for clearing up the AF point selector. I'm stillon the steep learning curve.



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Old Feb 28, 2006, 2:17 PM   #17
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I would try prefocusing on the floor in the area of the player (press the shutter half way down) then lift up the lens and let it rip.

If you use F2.8 or faster (preferbly F4), you will have the depth of field such that the players and the ball should be in focus, even if they are not exactly at the point of sharpest focus.

I use a Tamron 28-75 and I can get a focus "on the fly" with a moving subject and it will focus fast enough to take the shot while the subjects are moving.


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Old Mar 2, 2006, 8:28 AM   #18
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urbanaries,
some of the same interest as I'm saving up for my first DSLR to do much of the same. amateurish family & friends shots, family sporting events, etc.

at home today with flulike symptoms and almost sprayed my computer with Theraflu as you asked, "ONE QUESTION - forgive my basketball ignorance, what exactly is the baseline?" :G:G:G

Good luck. I like your shots so far.
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Old Mar 2, 2006, 8:36 AM   #19
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leeraff - glad I could provide you with some sickly humor :blah:

I figured it out pretty quickly. Tonight is MS volleyball and I played in college so I won't have any trouble with the lingo....i'll be sticking close to the "attack line"
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Old Mar 3, 2006, 1:14 PM   #20
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After yielding a 1gb CF card of out of focus volleyball pics, turns out there was something wrong with the 50mm's AF. I bought a new one today (the other one was 15+ yrs old) and it works 100x better, faster, quieter. Another BBall game tonight, looking forward to much better results.
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