Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Post Your Photos > Sports & Action Photos

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Mar 7, 2006, 6:29 PM   #11
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

Another thing that is well worth doing when posting/printing is to sharpen your shots using the unsharp mask (photoshop and paintshop pro both have these - not sure about other packages, but they will have some form of sharpen). On the left is your original and the right is the sharpened with the settings of Radius 1, Strength 100, Clipping 0. I would possibly reduce the strength for web tobetween 60 and 80 but did this quickly. When printing I will sometimes go up to strength 120 but play around with it.

I always make applying the unsharp mask that last thing that I do so that it does not get affected by/affect any other edits made.
Attached Images
 
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 7, 2006, 9:01 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 86
Default

Mark,

First...WOW. I am amazed at the difference after you sharpened that picture. That is one of the few that my daughter is in as she is just getting a few minutes yet as a freshman. I could really use that photo editing software. It would save some of my pics. Of course it's another kind of complicated thing I need to learn. My son-in-law has Corel Photo Paint but I couldn't figure out how to sharpen using that. I guess I'll try again.

As far as the z1, I have given up particularly in our high school gym. Until I get a better camera, I will borrow my son-in-law's maxxum 7d.

I understand most of what you said. I get confused about the apperture numbers. The lower number is what I want for shooting the indoor basketball. I was shooting with 2.8 and letting the camera pick the shutter speed. What I need to do if I understand things right is see if I can go to a higher(?) app?A 3.2 or as big a number as I can get to without getting too dark and losing shutter speed. Is that right? Because in doing that I will improve the depth of field.

Since our season is over for now, I will prob try to shoot some of my nephew in little league basketball which is played in our gym and that will give me practice while hopefully getting a few decent pics for his mom.

I do feel like I am slowly getting to understand parts of this :?and I really love it! I hope to be shopping for a camera this summer and will ask yall for advice.

Thanks so much, Mark, for all this great info!!

Darlene
darlenerenee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 3:47 AM   #13
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

Sorry, that is me confusing the issue. Your camera has a different maximum aperture depending on the amount of Zoom you use. You are probably right (I don't know the camera) so the best for indoor sports is to have the aperture as wide as possible (f2.8) to allow maximum light in. You will not want to change this as you will get more motion blur and a chance of camera shake.
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 7:00 AM   #14
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,529
Default

Darlene,

Welcome! I'm going to say congratulations on your first DSLR sports shoot. It's really not that bad. As Mark pointed out, one of the biggest issues moving to a DSLR brings is using focus points rather than the whole frame. But, that's also a blessing as well. When you get the focus right on the picture has much more punch because only your subject is in focus. The biggest thing is just keep practicing. And, getting closer to the action will also help - because your subject will be that much larger and cover a larger portion of the focus area - the further away you are the more pinpoint you need to be with focusing. Welcome, and look forward to seeing more sports work from you!!
JohnG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 8:27 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 242
Default

Mark1616

Thank you for the clarification. Please explain the following (apeture priority) by using this setting in low light the camera will choose a shutter speed. In my brief experiencewith sports a shutter under 1/250 is not fast enough to stop most motion. My camera f717 shows me a live histogram so I can see the exposure. This and from many pics before I have come to this conclusion. So if the all things similar I am left with manual exposure and software to clean up some underexposures. Apeture priority in low light sports deos not work becouse the shutter is to slow in my experiance.

Apeture priority in good lighting worked great, but again the shutter the camera chose was borderline 1/400. In great light I prefer to use 1/800 or 1/1000 to stop the subject and the ball. So im back to shutter priority or manual looking at the histogram before exposing. Another note with sports the amount of real nice pictures are much less than most of the pics.

darlenerenee

Deos your camera show you a live histogram? If it does then it might work better than you might think.

Angel L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 8:43 AM   #16
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

Hi Darlene,

Yes I always review with the histogram to be sure that the exposure is good and there are no areas 'blown out' or completely black. It would not be good to have areas such as these when shots go into papers or for people who are paying for prints.

I agree, there can be times when setting manual is fine especially if you can't get the shutter speed needed. The other option is to dial in a fixed amount of under exposure using Av (probably if you do have to work where things are always under exposed then manual settings will be best as there won't be a concern about having anything over exposed.

I expect to get about 10-50% of shots that are good enough to be printed/put on my web site, just depending on the lighting and what sport I am taking.
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 8:47 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 242
Default

Mark here is an example of apeture priority in low light. I do not know if opanda can recover the exif data. After processing with noiseware free edition the program removes the exif data from the picture. Just tried opanda and it was unable to recover the exif data.:roll:

F2.0, iso 800, shutter 1/200 (apeture priority) Notice the motion on the arm but the rest of the subject is ok.
Attached Images
 
Angel L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 8:57 AM   #18
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

I can see what you mean. I think you are right in this case and go for manual settings to compromise between freezing the shot and underexposing. It looks as if the lighting is very low there as even if you could dial in with an ISO of 3200 you would only be looking at 1/320 - 1/400 and assuming you had gone to DSLR and were using a 70-200 f2.8 lens this would still mean you need to under expose.

I think you should convince them to put new lighting in...... sure that will go down well..... lol.
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 9:42 AM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 86
Default

John,

Thank you (I think) :-). And now that you say that about the subject being closer for focusing, it does make sense. A better chance of focusing on the right subject with a bigger subject!

Angel & Mark,

I don't remember if the z1 provides a live histogram or not. I am pretty sure the 7d does. I remember seeing numbers everywhere. the shutter speed and apperture in particular. OK I will definitely pay attention to that and make sure I have at least a 1/320 or 1/500 shutter speed and the app is low but as high as I can get away with. I'm not really getting the exposure part yet. If I use say a 3.2 app instead of 2.8 (thereby getting a better dof) I could adjust the exposure to make up? Or is that completely wrong? Whew!

Darlene
darlenerenee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 8, 2006, 10:00 AM   #20
Super Moderator
 
Mark1616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,397
Default

If the light is too low to get a shutter speed of 1/400 at least then stick to f2.8, motion blue will do more harm than the small dof.

The 7D does have a histogram and if it is the same as the 5D then when viewing a shot all you need do is press the down cursor (or could be up) to turn it on. It is very useful and will show you areas by making them flash on the pic where the shot is either vastly over or under exposed. Very helpful indeed. If you are not used to a histogram then all you need to know is that the left hand side is for dark portions and the right is for bright. The average should be in the middle. If there are peaks far left or right then could mean you are going to have exposure problems for parts of the shot.

Hope this helps.
Mark1616 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 4:31 PM.