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Old Mar 3, 2005, 7:17 AM   #11
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Whoops. That's what you did. I need to see if PE does that. The full version of Photoshop has always overwhelmed me -- both with price and complexity.
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Old Mar 3, 2005, 10:50 AM   #12
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I'm sure PE has these functions. Levels is under image/adjustments and unsharp mask is under filter/sharpen.
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Old Mar 3, 2005, 11:12 AM   #13
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REMARKABLE. I just recently bought PE 3 which has many more features than the earlier versions. I found the level tool and the unsharp mask. The difference is dramatic.

I think you have saved me a $2000 camera purchase.



Thank you so much for taking the time. This has been invaluable to me.
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Old Mar 3, 2005, 12:40 PM   #14
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Glad I could help. I take it the levels tool is working well on the original files. I'd be interested to see any that you update on your site. I believe that the curves tool is actually better than levels but I haven't really got my head round that yet. For me levels is very straight forward and often very effective.

You should be able to get decent prints up to A4 from a 3Mp camera if you're using the best resolution and least compression.

This has prompted me to start updating my website. I've chosen and posted my first 6 digital pictures on this page http://www.ksbyrne.f9.co.uk/Red%20Se...Photos%201.htm



Ken.
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Old Mar 3, 2005, 12:49 PM   #15
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You have several special shots there but I'm a HUGE turtle fan and the Hawksbill is wonderful with the dark background.

I just signed up for an online PE 3 class so I can finally learn how to use some of those other tools.



Thanks again
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Old Mar 3, 2005, 1:39 PM   #16
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The turtle shot was one of those lucky shots. It just swam overhead and I managed to get one shot which was fortunately well exposed.

A course is probably a good idea. I know I'm only just scratching the surface of what PS can do. I do have a good (huge) book to refer to when I need to find out how to do something.

It's worth mentioning that auto levels can sometimes produce great results although a friend in the graphics industry says never use it.

Another tool that can sometimes produce good results is the white dropper in levels. As long as you have enough light and something you know should be white in the picture.

Both of these tools can also produce some truely awful results as well.

Another obvious tip when manipulating your pictures is always work on a copy. That way if it all goes wrong you can revert to the original and try again.

Not sure if Steve's sponsors will appreciate me talking you out of buying a new camera but good luck with the course.

Ken.
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Old May 11, 2005, 1:01 PM   #17
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Hi. I had a similar setup to geekdiver (A C3030 in an Ikelite case with a DS50 (slave) strobe). I took lots of great scuba pictures with that setup. I recently upgraded to a C8080 in the (bigger) Ikelite case, and connected the strobe with the direct TTL cable. I've done about 20 dives with the new setup. Here is my feedback:

1) The housing IS bigger and heavier. And I recommend removing the handle when transporting because I've had two handles bent in luggage due the weight of the housing. But apart from that the housing is rugged and reliable. Every knob and switch is accessible, which is actually a bit more than I need :-)

2) The camera and strobe work great! I recommend opening up one stop from the manual recommendations on the Ikelite web page. I use 100 ASA instead of the recommended 50 to achieve this.

3) An 8M pixel image is a big advantage when you are cropping.

4) The Oly C8080 is a very nice camera to use above the water. It takes clean, crisp well exposed images. Focus is quirky in low light like many other digicams and the user interface is a tad complex but its an excellent upgrade to the C3040. I've been shooting high res Jpeg but I think I'm going to switch to RAW for my next trip with larger CF cards.

Hope this is helpful.
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