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Old Jan 15, 2008, 5:04 AM   #1
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Gears: Swarovski 80ats + 30x-eyepiece + Nikon P5100
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 5:06 AM   #2
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 5:08 AM   #3
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 5:10 AM   #4
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 5:11 AM   #5
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 5:12 AM   #6
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 10:14 AM   #7
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Very nice! I like #1,3 and 5 the best, but all are well done...cheers....Don
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 10:20 AM   #8
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I love this...can you tell me exactly what you are using since I know nothing about digascoping...eyepiece, crystal???? thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 10:27 AM   #9
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thekman620 wrote:
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Very nice! I like #1,3 and 5 the best, but all are well done...cheers....Don
Thanks for commenting.
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Old Jan 15, 2008, 10:59 AM   #10
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Donna A. wrote:
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I love this...can you tell me exactly what you are using since I know nothing about digascoping...eyepiece, crystal???? thanks
The fieldscope first. Here is the link: http://www.swarovskioptik.at/index.p...amp;c=produkte

Swarovski is one of the top-notch fieldscope producers of the world. The others are Zeiss, Leica, Nikon and Kowa, to name a few.

I read comments about the latest products in the market and came up with Swarovski 80 ATS HD and its 30-time magnifying eyepiece as the glass for linking to the digital camera for imaging.

A in ATS stands for angled, shape of which can be seen in the link mentioned above.

80 mentioned above refers to the diameter of the front-most glass of the fieldscope. The larger the number, the brighter the lens. At present, 80 is the largest for Swarovski's.

The eyepiece. 30xrefers to themagnification ratio of the eyepiece. Put simply, if you are shooting with a prosumer DCset at the28mm in focus length, thenthe resultant focal length of your fieldscope will be 30X28mm, i.e. 840mm. If youzoom in to 80mm using the switch on your DC, then the resultant focal length of the fieldscope will become 30X80mm, i.e. 2400mm.

Gosh, with'2400mm',you will be able to shoot objects far away.But, bear in mind: a needle is never sharp at both ends. The farther the object, the less likely you will be able to get a sharp image. The gist for good images isto stay as close anduse as small afocal length of your DC as possible.

Lastly, about the camera to be used for digiscoping. You can use the DSLR. By then, you have to use Swarvoski TLS800 for connecting the fieldscope to your DSLR. No magnificationwill be possible as you are no longer using the magnifying eyepiece. The fieldscope then will be 800mm in focal length and when put onto an APS-DSLR, its resulting focal length will become 1200mm with aperture approximately standing at f10.

Most people preferto usea DC along with the eyepiece for digiscoping. You needan adaptal ring to connect the DCwith the eyepiece. Focusing is semi-automatic, meaning that you have tomanually focus the fieldscopein the first place and then the prosumer DC will automatically focus the imagetransmitted fromthe fieldscope.

I hope the above can help you to have a brief idea about how digiscoping can be worked out.; at least, something to start with, I hope.

PS A lot of people say Nikon is also a good choice to start with. It has a broad eyepiece system and its fieldscope is also good glass.


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