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Old Apr 15, 2013, 1:12 PM   #1
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Default Lesser Scaup Wing flapping

The first one is of a female Lesser Scaup and the second is a male. The female definitely looks better because of the color.
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Old Apr 15, 2013, 1:15 PM   #2
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the second one looks almost like a ringneck... were these shot at high ISO? seems to be quite a bit of noise, especially in the background...
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Old Apr 15, 2013, 2:11 PM   #3
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I was just focused in getting a good wing flapping picture and didn't pay much attention to what kind of duck it was before I shot. I was looking through my picture files and found this picture and I believe this was the one who flapped. The high ISO 1600 was used in order to stop the action on late afternoon sunlight. the Sigma lens I used is not very good in low light and not that sharp when used wide-opened.
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Old Apr 15, 2013, 2:18 PM   #4
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Default A little better flapping pictures

These two are a little better usng ISO 800 but still noisy. I have a long way to go in shooting pictures of fast moving subjects.
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Canon EOS T3i, 7D and 70D EF 17-40mm f/4L, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6, Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, 430 EXII Flash.
Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
Mirrorless APS-C camera: Samsung NX100, Canon EOS-M.
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Old Apr 15, 2013, 7:03 PM   #5
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looks like you had plenty of light to use a lower ISO setting, unless you had to stop down quite a bit to get clarity... what shutter speed were you at? you can easily freeze this kind of movement at 1/1000... the only time you need faster is for some ducks in flight... buffleheads, for instance, are very fast fliers, and their wings move quickly, so you need more like 1/1600 to ensure there's no blur.
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Old Apr 15, 2013, 8:37 PM   #6
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Thanks for the tips, Rocky! I was using 1/2000 sec because I wasn't getting a real good shot at the wing flapping. I am going to try your suggestion next time I go out thing. i find out about one thing though, the image I get from a 500mm lens is not very much bigger than a 300mm on my 5DMKII. I can generally shoot hand-held with this camera at 500mm on the Sigma 150-500mm lens. I don't have much luck on this focal length with a T3i. The weather down here in the Bay Area is okay but the sky is always hazy lately. The lighting for taking picture of a far away duck is somewhat challenging. I need some more practice .
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Canon EOS T3i, 7D and 70D EF 17-40mm f/4L, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6, Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, 430 EXII Flash.
Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
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Old Apr 18, 2013, 7:03 PM   #7
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Not a bad series. It does take a lot of practice! Rocky has giving some great advice.
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Old Apr 18, 2013, 11:29 PM   #8
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Thanks, Mugmar! Rocky has been great giving me advices.
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Canon EOS T3i, 7D and 70D EF 17-40mm f/4L, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6, Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, 430 EXII Flash.
Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 2:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCKSer View Post
Thanks for the tips, Rocky! I was using 1/2000 sec because I wasn't getting a real good shot at the wing flapping. I am going to try your suggestion next time I go out thing. i find out about one thing though, the image I get from a 500mm lens is not very much bigger than a 300mm on my 5DMKII. I can generally shoot hand-held with this camera at 500mm on the Sigma 150-500mm lens. I don't have much luck on this focal length with a T3i. The weather down here in the Bay Area is okay but the sky is always hazy lately. The lighting for taking picture of a far away duck is somewhat challenging. I need some more practice .
i haven't tried those focal ranges, since i don't have anything in the 500mm range, but the difference between 300mm and 500mm won't be huge on a FF body. noticeable, certainly, but not earth-shaking. however, the difference between a crop body (i.e. the T3i) and a full-frame like the 5DII is significant when comparing field of view. the image from a crop body will appear to be zoomed in about 40% more for the same focal length, which means you don't need to crop as much. i did some tests with my 5DII and 7D, using the 100-400L at 400mm... i had to crop the 5DII image from 21Mp down to under 10Mp in order to get the same FOV i got with the 7D at full 18Mp resolution...

as for having difficulty shooting with the 150-500, i suspect that the crop body FOV exaggerates any camera shake even more than the FF body does, so it appears more of an issue. i don't think that lens is stabilized, and it's not particularly fast... f/6.3 wide open at the long end, if i remember right. but if you can keep the shutter speed above 1/640, you shouldn't have to worry much about camera shake. with that lens and hazy skies, you might need to crank up the ISO to get your shutter speed where it needs to be, but fortunately, the 5DII is quite good at higher ISO settings, you can shoot at up to ISO1600 with virtually no noticeable noise, and it's usable for some shots even above that. not sure about the T3i, as i've never owned a Rebel-series body, but i think the newer ones are also fairly good at ISO 800-1600.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 7:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squirl033 View Post
i haven't tried those focal ranges, since i don't have anything in the 500mm range, but the difference between 300mm and 500mm won't be huge on a FF body. noticeable, certainly, but not earth-shaking. however, the difference between a crop body (i.e. the T3i) and a full-frame like the 5DII is significant when comparing field of view. the image from a crop body will appear to be zoomed in about 40% more for the same focal length, which means you don't need to crop as much. i did some tests with my 5DII and 7D, using the 100-400L at 400mm... i had to crop the 5DII image from 21Mp down to under 10Mp in order to get the same FOV i got with the 7D at full 18Mp resolution...

as for having difficulty shooting with the 150-500, i suspect that the crop body FOV exaggerates any camera shake even more than the FF body does, so it appears more of an issue. i don't think that lens is stabilized, and it's not particularly fast... f/6.3 wide open at the long end, if i remember right. but if you can keep the shutter speed above 1/640, you shouldn't have to worry much about camera shake. with that lens and hazy skies, you might need to crank up the ISO to get your shutter speed where it needs to be, but fortunately, the 5DII is quite good at higher ISO settings, you can shoot at up to ISO1600 with virtually no noticeable noise, and it's usable for some shots even above that. not sure about the T3i, as i've never owned a Rebel-series body, but i think the newer ones are also fairly good at ISO 800-1600.
Rocky,

Thanks for your reply! Before I bought the Sigma 150-500mm lens, I was happy just using the Tamron 70-300mm. The results I got from that lens is generally very good. I didn't realize having 200mm more focal length on a lens does not make much of a difference in terms of getting a larger image. I can shoot hand held using up to 350-375mm without any problem on the T3i. However, at 500mm is a different story on the T3i, now vibration becomes a problem as it causes fuzziness in the pictures. At this point, not even a monopod will works. The only way to make it to work on 500mm is through the use of a tripod.

None of my 2 long lens has very fast focusing speed, is there a way to facilitate faster focus? I mainly use AI Servo mode to track flying subjects. I don't always get the camera to focus fast enough to catch a bird. At 500mm, it takes a long while for the lens to get into focus. What is your technique to achieve faster focus?

Michael
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Canon EOS T3i, 7D and 70D EF 17-40mm f/4L, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6, Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, 430 EXII Flash.
Sony A200, SLT-A58 System with HVL-F42AM Flash.
Mirrorless APS-C camera: Samsung NX100, Canon EOS-M.
M4/3 systems: Olympus OM-D-E-M5 and Panasonic DMC-G3.
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