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Old Aug 30, 2005, 9:54 PM   #7
JimC
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
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RAL wrote:
Quote:
The largest print I print is8 x 10.
You'd probably be fine with 3MP for prints at 8x10 or smaller. But, most newer models are going to have more than that now. Never assume that more megapixels = higher quality. Sometimes the opposite can be true.

Quote:
I need a very short shutter lag- my kids move very fast I wnat as little as delay as possible when taking pictures of the kids or pets. I need a camera that does not blur when zoomed in or in low light or indoors.
OK -- here is where some problems can come in. Light is a camera's best friend.

Are you trying to take photos without a flash indoors, or do you mean with a flash?

If without a flash, you're going to get blur with most models. That's because shutter speeds will be too slow indoors to stop motion with the vast majority of non-DSLR cameras. You'll need to go with a DSLR model capable of shooting at very high ISO speeds, coupled with a very bright lens to have a chance at capturingsharp images ofkids indoorswithout a flash.

You'd just be wasting your money with most of the models mentioned in this thread for taking photos of kids indoorswithout a flash. Even with a DSLR model and a bright lens (and even entry level models are outside of your budget), it may still bea challenge (depending on how much movement you get from the kids and how good your inside lighting is).

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I am very confused about optical zoom (does the higher the optical zoom mean a longer shutter lag or am I totally off?)
It can mean that... Most (but not all) zoom lenses lose brightness as more zoom is used. As a result, the camera doesn't "see" as well to focus. Also, camera shake is magnified as more zoom is used (compounding the problem of the camera being able to see contrast in your subject to focus). Lens stabilization can help with the camera shake issue (to a point). Lens stabilization won't help blur from subject movement, though.

As already mentioned earlier in this thread, make sure to read the Conclusion section here in the reviews for models you consider. Steve usually addresses Autofocus Speed and Reliability. But, in lower light (or with a subject having lower contrast), Autofocus times can be much longer than the times you see (but the info here can be used as a guide to help see how models compare).

Quote:
So far the cameras that have been recommeded to me are the Canon A95, S60 or 70, the G6, and the S2IS. I am so confused as which one is the best for my needs.
What model is yourKodak?

What limitations do you have with it (other than autofocus lag)? Think about how you use it, and what you find limiting. Is it speed only,image sharpness, optical zoom limitations, flash range)?

What conditions do you use your camera in more often? Do you need a "super zoom" camera for sports or wildlife type photos to bring in distance subjects closer, or are most of your photos taken at the "wider" end of your lens? If sports photos, are they at in a stadium at night or in daylight (or even worse, indoors)?

Quote:
I am just afraid to spend all the money and find out I purchased the wrong camera, one with problems, or a new better model is coming out next week and I should have waited.
A better modelmight come out next week. :-) That's the way technology usually works. It's a rapidly changing industry, and the technology is still maturing. That doesn't mean an old model will stop taking nice photos, though. If you wait for the latest and greatest camera, you'll never get around to enjoying one (since a newer model will always be forthcoming).

As for purchasing the "wrong" camera, it happens. If you're not "digital camera savvy", it's probably a real good idea to buy it from a dealer with a no-restocking fee policy.

That way,if it doesn't meet your needs, despite your best efforts to find a good match,you canreturn it for a refund.
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