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Old Nov 27, 2003, 3:13 AM   #21
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Thanks Shene, very comprehensive.
Yesterday I tried to reverse mount another 50mm lens, F1.8 which even seemed to have its front element less recessed but the vigneting was even more significant. I proofed that only trying thigs can optimize the setup, not reading specs...
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Old Nov 27, 2003, 3:31 AM   #22
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Thanks Shene, very comprehensive.
Yesterday I tried to reverse mount another 50mm lens, F1.8 which even seemed to have its front element less recessed but the vigneting was even more significant. I proofed that only trying thigs can optimize the setup, not reading specs...
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Old Nov 28, 2003, 1:54 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinCZ
Yesterday I tried to reverse mount another 50mm lens, F1.8 which even seemed to have its front element less recessed but the vigneting was even more significant. I proofed that only trying thigs can optimize the setup, not reading specs...
This is very true in digital photography with consumer level digital cameras. Cross-platform application has been a challenge to computer systems, and using A brand's stuffs on B brand's cameras is even worse because we don't know if their specifications match precisely (many details are left out). Other people's experience and successful experiments, and one's own testings do make a difference.

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Nikon Coolpix 950/990/995/2500/4500 User Guide
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Old Dec 2, 2003, 5:30 AM   #24
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Shene, following your advice I decided to get one of those expensive dublet achromatic lenses, probably Hoya as it is the only one I can find here in Czech Republic.
I still don't know what strength of the lens would be best for me, I'm deciding between +4D and +5D. I want to get magnification which fills the frame (Oly 2100 has 6.5x4.8mm CCD) with area of 20 mm wide at max zoom.
I suppose both of them are similarly high quality. The stronger one would allow me to get the same magnification at lower than full zoom which could avoid softness of the long zoom as you wrote. On the other hand, how "wide" can I go with this type of add-on lens to get less magnification? Can there be any problem other than possible vigneting?
Off course I'll test it in the shop but I want to be prepared and know what to test
Thanks, Martin
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Old Jan 1, 2004, 9:39 PM   #25
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Thanks for your insights into the hardware side of digital macrowork. I am one of many people that were saved alot of frustration acquiring equipment peicemeal by your posts.
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Old Jan 24, 2004, 1:27 AM   #26
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I have added some reverse mount information for the Coolpix 4500 here: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=7383049

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Nikon Coolpix 950/990/995/2500/4500/5700 User Guide
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