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Old Mar 17, 2005, 4:06 PM   #11
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Ha Ha didn't think so.

Anyone else notice focusing problems when using a converter lens prior to updating the firmware on a Dimage A2 ? Or not, as the case may be.

Let me know Derrall when you've tried it.

Stevekin :bye:

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Old Mar 17, 2005, 5:13 PM   #12
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OK, here's the deal. Just spoke with Patty and she tried out her A2. ATC-100 installed and menu in "normal" mode. Lens focused fine as long as the macro switch was not locked on the lens. Once the macro switch was locked it would not focus unless the menu was set in the Tele mode. Mystery solved but guess there is some electronic connection via the macro switch on the lens.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it:G

TG
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Old Mar 17, 2005, 5:13 PM   #13
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OK, here's the deal. Just spoke with Patty and she tried out her A2. ATC-100 installed and menu in "normal" mode. Lens focused fine as long as the macro switch was not locked on the lens. Once the macro switch was locked it would not focus unless the menu was set in the Tele mode. Mystery solved but guess there is some electronic connection via the macro switch on the lens.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it:G

TG (sorry about the double post...my mouse was in "burst" mode):ak47:
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Old Mar 17, 2005, 5:51 PM   #14
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Trout Guy wrote:
Quote:
Lens focused fine as long as the macro switch was not locked on the lens. Once the macro switch was locked it would not focus unless the menu was set in the Tele mode.


Yes, but is this simply because when the macro switch is thrown,the camera thinks you are going to take a Macro shot ? So the focal point should be nearer anyhow. And with a lump of glass on the front it's going to struggle. :??:?
Quote:
Mystery solved but guess there is some electronic connection via the macro switch on the lens.


Does seem to be more the converter lens setting in the menu.


I'll have a play over next couple of days and try every scenario. Would be handy if you could too, but I do appreciate you are seeing your fiancee this weekend, so whatever you can do.

Off to bed now :bye:

Stevekin.


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Old Nov 30, 2005, 11:59 PM   #15
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I'm a new user of the A2. Just got it earlier this month for my birthday and being a new user to the A2, I realize there will be a large learning curve going from my point and shoot to this one. I really enjoy what this camera is capable of, but I want to learn more and this forum so far has been full of information, alot to digest in fact.

When I purchased the camera from Butterfly Photo in NYC, the guy made me a deal on a Tele and WA. 2x Tele, and .50 with Macro on the WA. Made by Vision Optics and with Titanium lenses. Of course, the threading is 52mm so I have to adapt the lens for the A2.

Should I be concerned with all this focus issue having a NON KM lens for my camera.

Also, What is a TCON-17. I understand its a lens, but whats so special, and does it have a 49mm thread pattern that will fit right on the A2. I'd really like to find a Tele and WA with the 49mm pattern as it will make the transition easier for me in the early goings with learning this camera and advanced photography.

Sorry for the long post, but if anyone can help, my guess is TroutGuy and SteveKin has many answers and I could use one. BTW TroutGuy, I'm assuming the Ozarks you're near are in Big Mo. I grew up in PB..........
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Old Dec 1, 2005, 5:39 AM   #16
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Hello xtombguard, congrats on getting an A2. You're lucky to find one now, as they were discontinued some time ago.

Sorry, don't know the lenses you have, but as you are aware, you need a step up ring.

As you do with a TCON-17, 49mm - 52mm. The TCON-17 is a popular alternative to the KM converters and is made by Olympus. Very good quality, with a conversion of 1.7x.

I bought mine as it was almost half the price, half the weight of the KM ACT-100.

As for lenses that fit without a step up ring, I believe there are only two. The ACT-100 and the ACW-100, both from KM and obviously dedicated lenses for the A2, A1 and the A200.

They would be the best option for your camera as they are made specifically for it.

I don't find focussing a problem at all with my TCON attached and as an update to the info I gave earlier, the setting in the menu for a Lens Accessory, enables the use of the macro switch simply to disengage macro mode but allow the lens from sliding home with the additional weight. Any attachment should only be used at the extremes. That is, a Teleconverter should be used with the camera's lens at 200mm and the wide angle should be used with the lens at 28mm.

It will work at lengths other than those, but you will suffer very bad vignetting. That's darkening in the corners of your images. If a teleconverter is attached and you move the zoom ring, you will see the effect of looking through a tunnel !

As for making your learning curve easier, I wouldn't worry about the need for a step up ring. Let's face it, if you are taking macro or wide angle shots, it's not often you will need to change to a teleconverter in a flash, it's only a couple of seconds more to attach the ring. In fact, mine is permanently screwed on to the TCON lens.

So basically, make your choice on cost, quality, what you want and consider any other advice you may read, but don't make the decision based on whether or not you need step up rings.

Hope this helps.
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Old Dec 2, 2005, 10:56 AM   #17
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Makes perfect sense Steve. Thanks.

I'm glad I found this forum, because of people like yourself and the many others that have a vast understanding of the equipment and photography.

I understand about the step up ring, and yes, I guess I'm wont be using it that often to worry about it, I was just hoping to avoid it. I'll have to check out the TCON.

Thanks again, and yes your reply was extremely helpful. I'm sure I'll be back with other question.

Lonny

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Old Dec 2, 2005, 11:03 AM   #18
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I have a good question for ya though.....

I was told by the salesman at Butterfly Photo in NYC that the MK lenses act & acw-100's had plastic lenses and not a true glass lens, is this true, and if so, how come they cost so much more.

The lenses that I have are Titanium (?). The WA has 3 groups, 5 elements........ what does that mean?
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Old Dec 2, 2005, 12:42 PM   #19
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xtombguard wrote:
Quote:
I have a good question for ya though.....

I was told by the salesman at Butterfly Photo in NYC that the MK lenses act & acw-100's had plastic lenses and not a true glass lens, is this true, and if so, how come they cost so much more.

The lenses that I have are Titanium (?). The WA has 3 groups, 5 elements........ what does that mean?

Firstly, I don't own either the ACT or ACW-100, but I don't for one minute think they are plastic !

I understand they are made to the same standard and quality of the lens already on your camera. This would have a bearing on the cost, as they are made specifically for the A1, A2 and A200.

Asfor what you were told by the salesman, I can only imagine they didn't have the KM lenses in stock and it was a sales pitch, to make you buy the ones you did !

Or, quite likely, better known as Bullsh*t !

I must qualify my answers by explaining that I do not have an optical engineering background and could be proved wrong !

Titanium is a metal. Not glass. So in your case I would think it refers to the construction of the lens housing, the barrel. The lens will either be glass or a form of plastic. Not metal. Try looking through a window made of metal .

As for the lens construction.........A lens is made up of several pieces of glass, not just one.

The number of elements is the number of pieces of glass used in the lens. If two or more are cemented together, that whole set is called a group. Thus a lens that has5 elements in3 groupscould be5 pieces of glass with 2 pieces X2cemented together.

The more elements a lens has, enables the manufacturer toreduce problems with things such as Chromatic Aberration.

Though a higher number doesn't necessarily mean better, it depends on the construction/configuration/quality etc.


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Old Dec 2, 2005, 1:56 PM   #20
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xtombguard wrote:
Quote:
I was told by the salesman at Butterfly Photo in NYC that the MK lenses act & acw-100's had plastic lenses and not a true glass lens, is this true, and if so, how come they cost so much more.
He's plain simply talking 100% pure Bull(/sh)Shit, from many aspects.
High quality converters made from high quality material cost always... and (Konica)Minolta's own converters were designed/are made with same quality standards as camera's lens.

He propably lied for getting generic low quality "El Cheapos" sold with big profit margin.

So I would be really skeptical about "quality" of those Titaniums.
First of all maker is quite obscure.


That 2x converter quite propably causes very noticeable vignetting. How big is "output" lens of converter?
If it's smaller than camera's front lens converter causes vignetting.
Same applies to wide converter.
Then there's things like sharpness and chromatic aberrations, only highest quality converters are good in those aspects.


Quote:
The WA has 3 groups, 5 elements........ what does that mean?
Pretty much nothing unless design is good.
And even if it works half decenly I would consider that kind converter useles, it propably causes very big distortion to image but it still isn't real fisheye giving 180 degree field of view.


There's really much pretty pure junk/paperweights sold around...

Does this description sound familiar?
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=9288155

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=15046753
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=8737947
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=14296286

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...hp/t-2436.html


And actually if you don't photograph wild animals 200mm is quite good for most things, including aircrafts in airshows. (1,2)

But one really useful accessory I would suggest is good protection/skylight/UV filter for full time use.
A2 can really give run for their money to DSLRs in many aspects and sadly it looks like it might take long time before there's new camera which could claim being next ultimate prosumer.
So at least I'm going to protect my A2's lens... if it gets dirty/fingerprints/scratches filter is easy and cheap to change unlike camera's lens... And after all dust is the most common stuff in this world.
It's just better to use good quality filters for avoiding degrading lens' good image quality... and in case of A2 and its real wide angle filter has to be quite slim, like Hoya Pro 1, to avoid vignetting.



Stevekin wrote:
Quote:
I don't find focussing a problem at all with my TCON attached and as an update to the info I gave earlier, the setting in the menu for a Lens Accessory, enables the use of the macro switch simply to disengage macro mode...


The more elements a lens has, enables the manufacturer to reduce problems with things such as Chromatic Aberration.
Though a higher number doesn't necessarily mean better, it depends on the construction/configuration/quality etc.
I think that setting affects also to Anti-Shake, required amount of shake compensation depends on focal length and (Konica)Minolta's own converter work with AS.


And without good multilayer coating more lens elements just causes more lens flares and generally lowers image quality.
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