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Nev Cross Jun 13, 2006 10:04 AM

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This was shot at Hervey Bay, Australia with a Fuji S9500.

1/2000th @ f4.0 ISO 200

Nev Cross

Australia :|

Walter C Jun 13, 2006 3:20 PM

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Welcome. It's a nice shot except for the blown highlights on the left. A polarizing filter would have helped. Cropping that section out would probably leave you with a more pleasing photo. Just my opinion, tho.


Here's what I mean...hope you don't mind.

Nev Cross Jun 13, 2006 9:30 PM

Hi Walter, the blown highlights on the left was very strong sunlight on the water, the shot was taken late in the afternoon and I was after the effect of sun on water as well as the pic of the pier. as you suggest, a polarising filter would probably have reduced the glare a bit but alas I do not have one, :(

regards from Oz,


calr Jun 13, 2006 11:25 PM

A split neutral density filter probably would work better. Polarizers work their best when the sun is at your side. With the sun directly in front, the polarizer would darken the entire image by an f-stop or two but the polarizing effect wouldn't be noticeable.

I like Walter's crop of your photo. If you were going for the sun reflection, I think you should have waited another 20 minutes or so and the oranges would start coming into play and the sun wouldn't be so bright.

Another couple things to consider, with the sun that bright, you could damage the sensor in your camera and your eyes. When the sun sets, the brightness drops off rapidly and there is much less danger of eye or camera damage.


selvin Jun 14, 2006 5:01 AM

Nev Cross,

Ditto to what everyone has said so far. Unfortunately we can't control everything in our environment. I am curious what this would look like in a softer lighting condition such as early morning - just curious. :?

Very nicely composed and thanks for sharing.


jbarrick Jun 14, 2006 8:19 AM

After using a split neutral density filter would there be a noticeable line in the image? It would be nice to see some examples on this subject.



calr Jun 14, 2006 9:04 AM

In a split ND filter, there is not a sharp line between the dark half and the clear sections. It is a gradual change. For that reason, they are often called graduated neutral density filter.

I you shot a picture of a solid white wall with a split ND filter you would probably see the transition from dark to light. However, in a real shooting situation, you rotate the filter and adjust your shooting position to align the filter transition with the transition between dark and light in the scene you are shooting. In the final photo, it is totally "transparent".


jbarrick Jun 14, 2006 4:44 PM

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Thanks Cal for the insight,

At this point in fell I have a good understanding of the filter. Although my vision of using this technique in a real life situation is unclear. Lets say the overexposed area is offset or L shaped, opposed to a somewhat gradual strait line. Would this filter help with the overexposed roof in this image? (see below) As the overexposed roof is just a small porting of the image. With my lack of experience I would think some portion of the image will be underexposed.


Tullio Jun 15, 2006 6:52 PM

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There are several settings that can help you reduce over exposed images. First is the metering mode. The S2 has 3 metering modes: Evaluative (also known as matrix), center-weight averageand spot AE. Each setting will calculate the amount of light coming in differently. In this case, Evaluative would probably produce the most accurate results since you are not zooming in on anything in particular. This statement is assuming thatyou have the center of the camera pointing to the center of the Barn. If the camera was set to center-weight, because the center of the barn was in the shade, the camera would need more light in order to capture the details of the barn, thus over exposing the roof and sky. Even worse if in Spot AE. Next comes the exposure. Unfortunately the S2 does not have a live histogram, so you can not see the results of your settings before the picture is taken. Otherwise, you would see that the roof was way too bright (the histogram would be leaning heavilyto the right). In any case, you can adjust the exposureto -0.30 and see the difference in play mode. The S2 will highlight all over/under exposed areas.If you still can not get a decent shot, set the camera to Av and decrease the aperture (f/5.6and above). You have plenty of light so shutter speed should not become a problem. The small aperture will also help reduce purple fringing.If it all fails, make the image B&W!

jbarrick Jun 15, 2006 8:52 PM

Thank you Sir,

I appreciate you taking the time to advise use on this common problem.

I will keep shooting and sooner or later I will get it right.

Thanks again,



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