|
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15
|
![]()
Hi,
Firstly, please be warned I'm completely ignorant when it comes to using a SLR camera - I'm buying the DRebel in the hope that I will learn a lot in time... Thanks to this forum, I've come to understand that it's bokeh that's important to me - I love b&w portraits with very blurred backgrounds...My question is, do I buy just the body and get a seperate lens, if so, which one will suit my needs? Alternatively, do I get the enthusiasts kit while I'm still learning and move on to specialist lenses when I have more of an understanding about photography in general? I'm in Australia so we don't get the rebates on lenses as far as I know. Thanks in advance Sheye |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links |
|
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 39.18776, -77.311353333333
Posts: 11,599
|
![]()
The larger the aperture (smaller f/stop)... the better the 'Bokeh'.
In this order: 85mm f/1.2 -> 85mm f/1.8 -> 50mm f/1.4 -> 50mm f/1.8 Alternately a 70-200 f/2.8 and best is a 300 f/2.8! ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15
|
![]()
Sorry, I should have added that in the past I've often tried to take indoor photos without flash as I hate un-natural light. I've not been very successful with my Nikon Coolpix 880 - either too much camera shake or too much noise when Itake the ISO right up. It will be photos of my children I'll be taking more than anything so I need to also consider that the subjects will not "pose" or stay still for long. Is there an ideal lens that covers all my requirements?
S |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15
|
![]()
The kit I'm referring to includes this:
The EOS 300D Big Zoom Kit includes the EOS 300D with Canon 28-90mm zoom, and additional EF 90-300mm lens. S |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 39.18776, -77.311353333333
Posts: 11,599
|
![]()
oops...
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 39.18776, -77.311353333333
Posts: 11,599
|
![]()
You can always add the EF-50mm f/1.8 to any kit lens
![]() This lens will have the best 'Bokeh' out of the whole 'kit'... and might do it for you indoor without flash as well! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,803
|
![]()
I didn't think that Bokeh was only created by the size of the aperture... but also had to do with the number of blades in the aperture diaphragm.
I also kinda thought that the number of elements in the lens had something to do with it (but I'm less confident of that.) I think this page might help: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/bokeh.shtml The 50 f1.8 is so cheap its worth getting any ways. And it will help with low-light photography. Eric |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 442
|
![]()
The number of blades and their shape define the shape of the OOF areas but it is more pronounced when stopped down, when shooting wide open on a fast lens the areas appear round with less defined edges. Of all the lenses I have used none display a more pleasing bokeh than the Sigma 180mm macro.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 39.18776, -77.311353333333
Posts: 11,599
|
![]()
I tend to agree with Tomsch "when shooting wide open on a fast lens the areas appear round with less defined edges":
![]() ... The round shapes are geeses on a frozen lake! :-) :-) :-) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 442
|
![]()
Here is a shot closed down where you can count the blades forming the shapes.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|