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Old Dec 10, 2006, 10:29 AM   #11
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Well.....these are a sampling of what I ended up with.

Any and all comments are welcomed...I really want to learn.

Thanks for all of yuor help and advice.




File Name
IMG_3356.JPG
Camera Model
Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT
Shooting Date/Time
12/9/2006 7:27:18 AM
Shooting Mode
Manual Exposure
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/125
Av( Aperture Value )
11.0
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
ISO Speed
400
Lens
24.0 - 60.0mm
Focal Length
28.0mm
Image Size
1664x2496
Image Quality
Fine
Flash
On
Flash Type
External E-TTL
Flash Exposure Compensation
0
Red-eye Reduction
On
Shutter curtain sync
1st-curtain sync
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
One-Shot AF
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Standard
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
2515KB






File Name
IMG_3354.JPG
Camera Model
Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT
Shooting Date/Time
12/9/2006 7:26:36 AM
Shooting Mode
Manual Exposure
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/125
Av( Aperture Value )
11.0
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
ISO Speed
400
Lens
24.0 - 60.0mm
Focal Length
55.0mm
Image Size
1664x2496
Image Quality
Fine
Flash
On
Flash Type
External E-TTL
Flash Exposure Compensation
0
Red-eye Reduction
On
Shutter curtain sync
1st-curtain sync
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
One-Shot AF
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Standard
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
3008KB


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Old Dec 10, 2006, 1:08 PM   #12
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looks like you aimed the flash straight at the subject?

couple of things:

-turn the flash compensation lower, for a lighter flash, but a flash nonetheless
-bounce the flash off the ceiling or wall
-put a filter over the strobe to make it a duller flash rather than an overwhelming one

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Old Dec 10, 2006, 8:09 PM   #13
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If you can afford it, a 2nd flash will help here:
1. You current flash is currently coming from the left when you turned the camera sideway
2. A 2nd flash placed on the right will cancel out the shadows from the on-camera flash
3. With 2 units firing each flash will put out less light also making it not as hash
4. You can of-course bounce both lights in combination to create a more even diffuse lighting
PS - I would also use FEL on the subjects skin tone (and turn off the auto WB)...
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Old Dec 10, 2006, 9:46 PM   #14
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The flash I had to use would only swivel in one direction. The images I took hoizontally with the flash bounced off the ceiling seem better to me. The girls wanted pictures in front of the fireplace....no walls close by to bounce the flash off. I found an old diffuser....that probably would have helped as well.

I ordered a Sigma 500 Super. I'm hoping the flexibility of that flash will help me....at the moment, two flashes are not an option. I did see some very inexpensive slaves at a local camera shop.....would something like that be a waste of money?

Thanks for the help.
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 11:08 AM   #15
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Not bad for starters but flash is hot in #2 shot.
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 11:52 AM   #16
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Not bad. As bobbyz indicated, flash was a bit too strong in the second shot.

Bouncing off the ceiling is always a good idea. As far as the flash being on the side - I'll take a different tat than NHL - I'd recommend considering a flash bracket. Multiple flashes work great for staged shots like this. But if you're moving around they aren't very practical. Whereas a flash bracket goes with you - you can always get the flash over the camera and you get even more distance between flash and lens so when you do have to shoot strait on, there is less chance of red-eye.


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Old Dec 11, 2006, 1:17 PM   #17
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Thanks guys. As I mentioned earlier, I ordered a new flash and am looking at brackets and a cord.

Any comments about those inexpensive slave units?
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 4:49 PM   #18
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twkenny wrote:
Quote:
Any comments about those inexpensive slave units?
-> You need to pick the slaves from the ones that do not trigger from the pre-flash


With a 2nd flash like the EF-500DG Super you'll have more flexibility like in controlling their ratio... which you can't with 1 head

As to flash bracket IMO it's a good idea, but I usually pull out my Metz's for theses occasions - They usually come with dual-heads and don't underexpose(#1) or overexpose(#2) as much as the E-TTL system when set on Auto (i.e. what FEC compensation should you set for?): :-) :lol: :G

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Old Dec 11, 2006, 5:16 PM   #19
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NHL wrote:
Quote:
As to flash bracket IMO it's a good idea, but I usually pull out my Metz's for theses occasions - They usually come with dual-heads and don't underexpose(#1) or overexpose(#2) as much as the E-TTL system when set on Auto (i.e. what FEC compensation should you set for?): :-) :lol: :G
NHL, I did not understand your comment above. What do you mean?
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Old Dec 12, 2006, 7:35 AM   #20
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harana wrote:
Quote:
NHL, I did not understand your comment above. What do you mean?
This is an old joke (free registration):
http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/wc031.htm

Notice the above pictures - What would you have set the FEC for before taking the pictures?
+ for the 1st picture would make the 2nd one worst
- for the 2nd picture would make the first exposure even worse (check the details on #2 suit/dress vs the shadow areas on #1)

... and why I always resort to FEL on the skin tone for theses cases with E-TTL
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