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Old Feb 12, 2007, 8:42 PM   #1
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I saw a place to tick either 8bit or 16bit in my canon software/edit program, do I want 16bit, does it make a big difference? Also I assume I want RBG as mycolor space not sRBG...is that right? Other than my camera and my adobe 4.0 is there anywhere else I need to note this. Thanks, Donna
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 1:57 AM   #2
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If you do most of your own printing I would use adobe RGB for your color space. If you have your prints made somewhere like an online lab, check with them to see what they recommend. Some will want sRGB others will use Adobe RGB. As far as 8bit or 16bit I have my raw conversion software set to convert to 16bit, now depending on the editting software, I use photoshop elements a lot of the functions don't work until you convert to 8bit, and you can't save to jpeg until you convert to 8bit. But I do all the editting functions that I need, that opperate in 16bit before I convert to 8bit.
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 2:23 AM   #3
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Like Caboose, I use adobe rgb and 16 bit and do all my editing in 16bit. remember with 8bit you only get 256 colors to work with. but, with 16bit you get 65000+ colors. 16bit helps decrease or nullify the moire effect you see in some pictures especially in the sky. I use PS CS2 andhave never converted to 8bit for jpegs unless it does it automatically when I save for the web.

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Old Feb 13, 2007, 8:03 AM   #4
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Thanks guys...that takes care if ny questions for now. Donna
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Old Feb 14, 2007, 9:38 AM   #5
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I agree with all above (I use either Adobe RGB or ProPhoto for my color space and 16-bit) but I want to add a bit more....

You also asked if 16-bit make a big difference. The answer seems to be... Very little. I've done a few tests, and my Photoshop teacher has done even more. And at least in the techniques that we use (only adjustment layers, a lot of changes in the RAW conversion) the difference is basically unnoticable.

Now, even knowing that I my brain says "it must make a difference at some time! Its just gotta!" so I use 16-bit all the time. It means I use more ram (I have 1G, and it isn't always enough) and it slows done some operations (I beleive) but I still do it.

My suggestion is to try it both ways and see what you think. See if you can see the difference.

Eric
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Old Feb 15, 2007, 9:33 AM   #6
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I do 99% of my own printing and ive had my settings on sRBG, they print out fine. I use PS7. Should i change my settings to adobe RGB in my RAW conversion programme ( Digital photo processor, it came with the camera)where I change them to tiffs?
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Old Feb 15, 2007, 10:11 AM   #7
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What printer do you use? These are my experiences with an Epson 4000.
The reality is that almost certainly the printer's inks and the paper you use will be the limiting factor on printing more than the color space you use.

If you prefer to print on matte paper, then its the paper that is going to reduce the variety of colors you can print. If you print on Glossy paper, then you'll be able to reproduce a wider color gambit/color space and then it might make a difference if you use Adobe RGB.

This should be easy to test using soft proofing. Soft proofing is where you use an ICC color profile to simulate what the printer will do if it printed with that specific printer on that specific paper. I don't know if PS7 supports soft proofing or not. (If not, I would highly recommend you wait until PS CS3 comes out and then get the upgrade. You take great pictures, you should use the best software you can to work on them!)

Here is what I would do. Convert the RAW file in Adobe RGB into tiff and then work in it in PS 7. Once you're ready to print save the file. Then duplicate the window so you have two independent windows of the same image (don't open another window to the same image, make a real duplicate.) Then convert one to sRGB. Then enable soft proofing using your favorite paper on both images. Look to see if they are different or not. Here is an example of what I'm talking about. This image:

Notice how the background is very green? When I print this on a glossy paper that green comes out that nice -nice and rich. If I print that on matte paper the green is actually quite brown. This is because the same inks on matte paper just can't reproduce those colors.

If you soft proof the same image in both color spaces you should be able to tell what will happen if you print them without wasting the time and paper/ink to test it. Now, a paper reflects light and a monitor produces light, so it isn't exactly the same. But its very close.

Eric
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Old Feb 15, 2007, 10:51 AM   #8
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wow Eric, teach any on-line classes in Adobe....I have 4.0. Donna
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Old Feb 15, 2007, 5:55 PM   #9
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donna,
I don't teach any on-line classes (maybe I should? Hum....) I do teach classes in person (both in photography and photoshop) and I also consult. In fact, I'm going to do that tonight.

Elements 4 is a fairly capable program. I don't know if it supports soft-proofing but it offers much that the full version of PS has (at least, the subset that is useful for photographers.) The person I'm going to help tonight has that version as well.

Eric
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