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Old Jun 16, 2008, 1:27 PM   #11
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Thanks john,

I think i'm going to go for the 50mm 1.8 for indoor shots of the kids, is it useful for portraits too?

Whats a good indoor sports, telephoto lens?

I wonder if a good general outdoor telephoto lens would be better...

JohnG wrote:
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Yes it's a nice walk-around lens.

No - without flash it won't do well indoors. For indoor stills you'll want to add an external flash. For indoor sports it will be next to useless. I wouldn't recommend counting on ISO 3200 for your indoor sports, so that means you'll be wanting a 2.0 lens for everything except maybe ice hockey (where you might be able to get by with a 70-200 2.8).

The 50mm 1.8 is good for about 10-15 FEET (not yards, feet) of coverage

The 85mm 1.8 is good for about 20-25 feet

The 100mm 2.0 for maybe 30 feet

The 135 2.0 is needed beyond that and is good for about 40 feet.
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 1:48 PM   #12
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jang wrote:
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Whats a good indoor sports, telephoto lens?

I wonder if a good general outdoor telephoto lens would be better...
Depends on how you define telephoto. Some people might say the 100mm 2.0 and 135mm 2.0 lenses are telephoto. Do you want something longer? then you're into serious cash (think $4000). DOn't confuse telephoto with zoom. They're not the same thing. If you really meant zoom, then the answer depends on the sport. A 70-200 2.8 is a nice lens if you are allowed to use flash (in ohio you can use fash for basketball or wrestling but not for volleyball or gymnastics). If you can use flash then I recommend the 580EX paired with 70-200 2.8
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 1:51 PM   #13
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Whats the difference?

I think i meant zoom

i wonder if 200mm is long enough for kids sports evens when i'm in the stands...
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 1:58 PM   #14
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Telephoto typically refers to the reach of the lens. Anything over 135mm is definitely a telephoto lens. A 400mm 2.8 lens cannot zoom but it is still telephoto. A 17-55mm can zoom (from 17mm to 55mm) but it itsn't long enough to be considered telephoto.


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i wonder if 200mm is long enough for kids sports evens when i'm in the stands...
Again, it depends on the sport. Basketball - it's long enough although your positioning will dictate what types of shots you can get - shots of the back of someone's head usually are very boring. So your shot selection will be somewhat limited by your position in the stands. For something like football or soccer? 200mm would be pretty useless from the stands.

At this point I am going to suggest you start your own thread on the subject - we've left the OP far behind. And his specific needs may differ from yours. So if you have additional questions, please start a new thread and that way we aren't hijacking the OPs thread.
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Old Jun 22, 2008, 12:18 AM   #15
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Hi Tim. John has some great suggestions. Mine would be this. Get a fast prime and crop.
Sure, the pictures won't be as sharp, but it's a *ton* less cash.:-)
I specialize in dog agility photos. Fast action, think dogs running over jumps, over A-frames, through tunnels, generally held in dark horse barns.
I had a 40D (I had an XTi first, but I wanted as good a low light performance as I could get)
I had one lens, a Sigma 18-200 As I recall, the fastest aperture is f 3.5.
I only was planning on ever having one lens, but as John said, a DSLR is a *system*, not just one camera with one lens.

So I had two ways to go.
1. Get a Canon L series or similar 3rd party zoom lens, f 2.0 or faster. There are two problems with this, at least for me. One is the cost, I'd be looking at $4,000 or more. Second is the weight. A fast zoom lens has a *lot* of glass, I was talking to a professional wildlife photographer, she said I'd need a monopod just for the lens.
2. Get a fast prime lens. Prime being just one focal length, not a zoom. I got a Canon 85mm f1.8 for something like $350, and it's very light.

[img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/All%20Users/Documents/Nadac%20Fundraiser,%205-25-08-done/Small/Sunday%20Fun%20Match-5523.jpg[/img]
Joe

PS. I"ll attach a a picture that I took (I was going to attach a couple, but don't see how to do more than one). I was on one end of a large horse barn. The dog was probably 100 feet away. As I said, it's not the sharpest picture, but I don't have a professional photographers budget.
Every shooting session is a learning experience. One thing that *really* helps is shoot in RAW format if you're planning on doing much processing, cropping, etc.

CORRECTION: This picture was taken with my XTi. I haven't had a chance to do any indoor shooting with my 40D



TimD57 wrote:
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Thanks for replying JohnG,
I guess my questions would be can someone suggest a decent lens for my uses and is the 28-135 a good all around lens for most purposes (birthdays,portraits etc)?

Once again I am a novice andphotography is something I always wanted to do but unfortunately just could never find the time or money until now:-)

Thanks TimD57
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Old Jun 22, 2008, 11:57 AM   #16
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Thanks Joe-1957 for replying to my questions. There is a lot to take in regards toall of the lenses and there uses. I will take your advise into consideration. In your comments above do you still own the 40D and if so are you enjoying it as much as I am? I have spent many hours in the past few weeks learning the camera and taking some fantastic pictures with the kit lens (28-135mm)that came with the camera. In my opinion the Canon 40D is doing just what I wanted in a DSLR but I just need to fork out some cashfor some decent lenses. As JimC and JohnG have stated in some of the threads that I have read you can have all the camera you need but its the person behind it that ends up with good results.

Thanks, TimD57


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Old Jun 22, 2008, 11:54 PM   #17
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I love my 40D. I was going to keep the XTi so I wouldn't have to switch lenses as often, but I'm probably going to sell it. I really like the ergonomics of the 40D a lot better.

Joe
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