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Old Oct 14, 2003, 2:56 PM   #11
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NHL, I was comparing (implicitely) to the F4 Canon 17-40L. Then it is one stop. But yes, if it is already underexposed you'll need some digital darkroom work to get it out.

Did you get your 28-135 lens creep fixed? How bad is it? If I point my lens up or down, it either just floops completely in or out.

Barthold
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Old Oct 14, 2003, 3:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Did you get your 28-135 lens creep fixed? How bad is it? If I point my lens up or down, it either just floops completely in or out.
Mine is not that bad yet (like I've said I rarely use it), but when wearing the camera on my shoulder it always extended all the way out...

One time I was using this lens on a speed boat hopping between islands, the IS just refused to work though: The 7 AF points just sequenced rapidly between themselves until I turned the IS off... It worked fine when the boat slowed down, but bouncing waves were definetly not its forte which I confirmed again on the trip back.

BTW I've just picked up an EF 85mm f/1.2 over a 55mm f/1.0, at least here I wasn't willing to pay for the .2 extra stop, even though the 55mm is a better fit for the 10D available light portrait (may be when going to a full-frame hey?) :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Old Oct 14, 2003, 7:34 PM   #13
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Graig, whatever your choice is you have indeed to consider not to waste money on a lens you regret afterwards. As a start you can go for a secondhand 50mm f1.8 lens. They are really great and generations of photographers have made their point by using only this focallength. (ok with 10D it's 1.6x50)
Most times fixed focallength lenses have the best performance.

Another option is to start with an alround holliday/party lens. Something leightweight, cheap, 28 upto telezoom whatever. It is true the Canon 28-135 IS is a great lens. I have turned in 1 month time into a total spoiled IS junky. However this lens alone weights about 500 gr, and has the typical Canon price.
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Old Oct 14, 2003, 8:55 PM   #14
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I didn't realize my comments would keep this thread going that much.

I have the 50 f1.8. It's a cheap feeling but nice lens. I'm happy with its sharpness and it lets me get photos (without flash) that I wouldn't have gotten any other way (with my equipment.)

I have the 28-135. It isn't bad. Good weight, nice reach for indoors (with a flash) birthday shots (my Dad's 70th yesterday.) Sharp enough and I don't get the zoom creep that others mention. The only complaint is lack of lens hood (I so agree, NHL) and 28mm just isn't enough. I don't really have an eye for landscapes, but I want to try some with the leaves turning here in fall... and the 28 x 1.6 is preventing me! I hate to buy something that I won't end up using much, but I'll never be able to make an honest try with the 28-135.

To me, it's between the Canon 17-40L F4 (like barthold mentioned) or the Sigma 15-30mm f3.5-4.5 EX Aspherical DG DF. My preliminary decision is to pass on the sigma 17-35 f2.8-4.5, one too many reviews dislike it. I'd love the Canon 17-35mm f/2.8L, but it's way to expensive to justify. People seem to love it (but the 17-40 is supposed to be better near 17, but softer near 40.)

There are too many tradeoffs for the $$ that I'm not sure. Gotta read more and look for more reviews.

Eric
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Old Oct 14, 2003, 9:23 PM   #15
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Eric,

Quite a few pictures in my Utah and RMNP galleries are taken with the 17-40L, often at 17mm. www.pbase.com/barthold I really like that lens. It's not very heavy, and even although it has a 77mm front-thread, not bulky. Plus, it does come with a lens hood :-) Just count on spending another $100 on a polarizer filter (a must for landscapes).....

Barthold
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Old Oct 14, 2003, 9:46 PM   #16
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Barthold (or anyone), do your other Canon zooms change focus as you change the focal lenght? That's another thing I don't like about the 28-135 IS USM varifocal design.

Try it yourself in one-shot AF and focus on something ~4ft away @ 135mm, check the distance scale. Now change the focal lenght to 28mm and press the shutter lightly to AF again on the same object... Notice the distance scale? It has moved significantly even though the subject remained stationary! The Sigma's EX zooms or even my older Canon's FD lenses did not do this... Don't you guys zoom-in to focus, and then zoom-out to compose? Apparently it's a No-No for this lens and its manual even cautioned against this practice.

This 28-135 IS, like most high-power zoom P/S cameras, relies on the fact that the camera has AF and would continuously focus to compensate. Now put your camera in Servo or AI focus... Can you hear the focusing mechanism as you zoom-in and out on the same subject?

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Just count on spending another $100 on a polarizer filter (a must for landscapes).....
You should see how much a bigger 82mm polarizer for the 17-35mm f/2.8-4 EX HSM cost! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Old Oct 15, 2003, 6:37 AM   #17
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Yes, I have noticed this focus shifting when changing focallenght, but other lenses I behave the same. No problem; Most times I compose and next I manual focus...
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Old Oct 15, 2003, 8:02 AM   #18
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I have heard that focusing when zoomed in can yield the best/fastest focus. But have to say that I don't do it. I haven't learned which of my lenses have a varifocal design. I'm still getting myself to think about the subject lighting ("the metering will darken this to 18% grey, so I need to lighten with exposure comp..." type of thoughts) so I don't want to worry about other things.

barthold

I'll check out that gallery. People do seem to like that lens. But it is close to $200 more than the sigma, so I need to dig up some more lens comparisons.

Which polarizer do you (and others!) recommend for landscape work? Circular or not?

Eric
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Old Oct 15, 2003, 9:59 AM   #19
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I don't know about you guys... but changing focus while zooming is a step backward in technological advance (and I thought getting AF is step forward) in lens design. I know that this design trade-off will give you a higher zoom ratio, but there's plenty of examples of other zoom lenses that do not change focus while zooming... How about your 100-400L I'll be surprised if such a high-end does it....

Wonder if the Sigma 50-500mm or any of the Nikon lenses do this as well :?

BTW I think you'll need a circular polarizer since it's phase detector type of array in your dSLR... The D7 for example using the CCD as AF can use a regular one.
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Old Oct 15, 2003, 10:28 AM   #20
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Well I can't argue that varifocal is a good thing. I don't like it, but I live with it. I assume it's a cheaper design? I believe you are correct, that the 100-400L doesn't change focus when zooming. I have a Nikon using friend I'll ask about his lenses.

Thanks for the tip on circular. That is exactly the type of info I was hoping someone would know and pass on.

What is the diff between a circular and non (linear?) polarizer? Or maybe someone can suggest a link to a website which describes proper (circular) polarizer use?

Eroc
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