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Old Dec 14, 2008, 9:39 PM   #1
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Last night I was at MSG to see a hockey game. I tried taking some shots with my Rebel XT and kit lens. I know it has limitations, but before I spend, I want to get better.

You can see that one shot is yellow'ish. That' the one I shot in AV mode, custom 4-3. The other one that has better color, was shot in the auto mode. Both shots were zoomed in completely. I'm guessing that I needed to make some changes to the AWB or something similar. Looking for feedback on the color. I'm sure I still need to work on focusing. BTW, the shots are not cropped yet.

thx,
Vinnie
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Old Dec 14, 2008, 9:40 PM   #2
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Here's the "bad" one.
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Old Dec 15, 2008, 9:49 AM   #3
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The shots look different because the exposure used by the camera was different. 1/40 in the first shot, 1/60 in the second shot. Both are underexposed but the second more than the first. It's very difficult to assess white balance when a shot is underexposed. If the exposure is correct then it's easier to judge white balance. But the exposure mode has no impact whatsoever on what whitebalance the camera uses. So, it's not a factor in the two shots you posted.

So, fix the exposure and you'll see better color.

The problem with allowing the camera to meter in hockey is the white ice. The camera wants to expose it as if it were grey.

I would advise NOT using auto. Go ahead and try AV again - but first bump the ISO up to 1600. Then set aperture to 5.6. Then set exposure compensation to +2/3. Take a photo and look at it. Ice should be BRIGHT white. Normally the key is to see what faces look like but you're too far away to judge by faces. Make an adjustment to EC if necessary. When things look right in the image look at the shutter speed the camera used. Now switch the camera to manual exposure (M). Dial in iso 1600, f5.6 and that shutter speed. Now you're good to go.


There's a possibility auto white balance still isn't a good choice. In which case once you get exposure correct you set a manual white balance using the ICE as your subject. The cameras manual will explain how to set a custom white balance.
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Old Dec 17, 2008, 8:29 PM   #4
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How can you tell the exposure, and other things like that from the pic? I'd like to be able to do that from older photos. It's good to see what may have worked in certain situations.
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 5:39 AM   #5
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kc571 wrote:
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How can you tell the exposure, and other things like that from the pic? I'd like to be able to do that from older photos. It's good to see what may have worked in certain situations.
Well the shooting parameters(shutter speed, aperture, ISO)are imbedded in the photo in what's called EXIF. You can get a free exif viewer like Opanda Iexif.

The fact that it's underexposed is just what my eyes tell me - no special tool.
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 1:38 PM   #6
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I downloaded that program, and opened up the picture with #5 in it. Opanda said now exif info available.

thoughts?
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 2:07 PM   #7
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I can now right click on any image, and attempt to view the exif. Do you have an image in which I can do that? Everything that I click on, says no exif available.

thx again...
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 2:22 PM   #8
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the image you posted here on dec 14 at 9:40has the IEXIF in it.
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 3:34 PM   #9
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Obviously the best thing to do is capture the shot right the first time, but if that doesn't happen, you can always adjust it in post processing. I cleaned this up in about one minute with Lightroom. I'm sure it could even be cleaned up further, but I was just giving you a quick example...
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 3:43 PM   #10
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Chris - while technically true, the latitude you have to clean up images in PP at high ISOs is reduced. At ISO 100 if you are 2 stops underexposed no big deal - that's easy to clean up. When you start getting into ISO 1600 and 3200 territory the detail gets destroyed by noise. It works in the image in question because there's no real detail - the shot is way too widely framed. But if you're framing tightly and getting recognizable faces in the frame you lose that critical facial detail pretty quickly with underexposed shots. The problem is amplified by cropping. So, for a sports shot, if you fill the frame with the subject initially you have a bit of latitude for underexposure. But if you didn't do a good job of framing and need to crop you're losing detail there. Then on top of it you have lost detail to initial noise. Then you lose more detail from adjusting the exposure. It's a tripple whammy. Any time you remove one of those 3 negatives you get a better photo. 1 is tough to prevent - you can't always add light to shoot at a lower ISO. But the other 2 you as a photographer CAN control - shooting tight to begin with and getting faces exposed properly to begin with. Doing those two things will give you the most detail to work with. And with low light action, every bit of detail helps.
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