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Old Apr 1, 2010, 12:17 AM   #1
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Default T1i Light meter brightness and blurry shots

I have been practising. Though I find that the Light meter always seems to make things brighter than they need to be. As an example, this pictture has the following with ISO 100
Exposure Time |13sec.
FNumber |f/6.3

I set a modest f-stop and then centered the light meter in the view finder to ensure proper exposure.


Even though this pic was taken on a tripod, with the 2 second delay, you can still see the blur as well. I dont know why.
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Old Apr 1, 2010, 12:26 AM   #2
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Best thing to use is a cable release or a wireless release. Even on a tripod you need to let the camera settle for a bit. You can try the 30 sec delay or spend 4 dollar on ebay. Just do a search for t1i remote release.

On your shot, the white balance is off. Think you will be better serve doing a custom white balance with a white balance card or 18% gray card then using auto white balance. After that if it is still to bright, set the ev to -1/3 to -2/3 and see what exposure you prefer. It is normal for a dslr to try to over expose a shot if you are shooting something dark and under expose the shot when you are shooting something bright.

Check out www.dslrtips.com they have a workshop video about shooting something very bright.
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Old Apr 1, 2010, 4:00 AM   #3
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OK, this is a very normal situation, and the camera has responded as designed. You've shot in evaluative metering so the camera has split the photo into zones and then worked out the best exposure as an average for all of these. So you have some areas that are at the bottom end of the range and some 'hot' areas. The overall exposure on this photo is just under exposed which is what the camera has deemed to be the best compromise with the dark sky etc.

I've included your photo below with the histogram so you can see that overall it is not over exposed at all.

Now, if you want to expose for the bright area of the photo, you need to switch to spot metering so only the centre portion of the frame is used for metering and point this at the area you want to be correctly exposed, however in this scene that would have rendered the rest of the photo very dark (assuming you metered on the bright shop). You can do something similar using Manual exposure, and this is what most long shutter speed shots should be taken in.

As for the shake, did you leave the IS turned on, this can cause such a problem when using a tripod.
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Old Apr 1, 2010, 4:23 AM   #4
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Is the histogram just a graph of light concentration on the photo? and Yes IS was on. Why would it hurt the image?
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Old Apr 1, 2010, 4:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyBird View Post
Is the histogram just a graph of light concentration on the photo? and Yes IS was on. Why would it hurt the image?
Yes, so on the left you have total black and on the right it would be pure white. As you can see the average is below the middle and is pretty much what I would expect to see for this sort of scene.

The IS can be working and trying to counteract what it deems movement but isn't so causes blur in long exposures. Depending on the lens some should recognise they are on a tripod but still it is best to switch it off.
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