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Old Dec 4, 2003, 11:41 AM   #1
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Hi: I know this is another "What lens should I buy?" type question but I've looked through this extensively and still can't decide. Basically, my question involves Canon's Image Stabilization (IS) technology.

As I take frequent sports photos of my family, will the IS adjust wrong when I am 'panning' a moving object? This is a concern for me as I'll primarily be taking photos of moving objects.

Why is the Canon 28-200mm w/USM, f3.5-5.6 only $360, compared with $400 for the 28-135 w/IS? Is the IS that expensive? But, back to my first question, if it's appropriate for what I'm using the camera for (low to good light stop action) then I'll pay the difference.

I've looked at Sigma lenses as well. Do they 'interact' with my D300 in the same way that the Canon lenses do? Also, do they allow me to use my newly acquired 420ex flash (read about it on this forum) in the same way?

Here's what I've narrowed it down to:

Canon 28-135 USM w/IS, f3.5-5.6 ~$400 (I'm guessing my best choice?)
Canon 28-200 USM, f3.5-5.6 ~$360
Sigma 28-200 f3.5-6.3 ~$250
Sigma 28-105 f2.8-4.0 ~$200 (this one seems 'fast' for the money, good for low light swim meets?)
Sigma 28-200 f3.5-5.5 ~$190


Thanks to all in advance. This forum has been a big help to this photographically (as well as other areas) challenged reader.

Happy Holidays. gary
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Old Dec 5, 2003, 3:46 PM   #2
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The EF 28-135 IS USM is a great lens and ideal for sports photos. The IS will give you about 2-3 stops over a non-IS lens. I've taken some great handhelds at 1/15-1/30s using that lens, other lenses would have blurred the shot for sure.

The statement "you get what you pay for" is very true with lenses.

-Steve
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Old Dec 5, 2003, 5:54 PM   #3
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I have the 75-300mm USM IS f/4-5.6.
To be honest, I passed up my Sigma EX 70-200mm f/2.8 and don't regret it yet... The IS feature is just :shock: . Im not sure about this "Panning" with IS? Maybe Steve could help with that. The IS trys to fight you from movement that you make. Its like a gyroscope. I have froze many pictures I didnt think I had enough light for (ie: 1/30th, etc) and came out fine hand held... 8) Action on the other hand you need to freeze it, not pan with it unless your looking for exposure effects. Some action shots that might be acceptable like race cars, but where there would be arms moving and water splashing, etc. That might be a bit more difficult.

But I myself, if I can get a lens I am looking for with the IS vs without IS. Ill pay the extra for the IS. Its a great feature expecially if you dont like draggin' your tripod everywhere you go...
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Old Dec 6, 2003, 1:10 AM   #4
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The panning IS is interesting. Basically IS tried to compensate for motion caused by camera shake. In normal mode, it tried to remove shake in all directions. In the panning mode, it only removes the shake in one direction (I believe it supports panning up and down, along with left and right.)

Eric
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Old Dec 6, 2003, 7:29 AM   #5
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Thanks you guys. You've helped me decide on the IS model. It finally occured to me that I assume I can shut off the IS feature if I found that it didn't 'pan' well. Anyways, I'll order the IS lens and see how it works out. Thanks again, I appreciate getting advice from people who have in all likelyhood, forgotten more about photography than I'll ever know. gary
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Old Dec 6, 2003, 7:40 AM   #6
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The IS on my EF 28-135 f3.5-5.6 USM is fixed, ie there's no way to select for panning only!

Also just like what was said IS is only effective at low-light to compensate for lower shutter speed (or larger aperture)... For action you need high shutter speed, IS won't help you there: ie the subject move not the camera!
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Old Dec 6, 2003, 7:58 PM   #7
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NHL's right - to freeze the motion of swimmers you'll need a faster shutter speed. In that case you'd be better off with a lens with a wider aperature not IS.

My preference of the two is to get the faster lens and increase shutter speed. I don't have any IS lenses so I can't comment much more beyond that.
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Old Dec 7, 2003, 8:28 AM   #8
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"aperature" this got to be francophone... :lol:

To illustrate this point let's take the above EF 28-135 f3.5-5.6 IS USM as an example... The rule of thumb is that the shutter speed has to be set to at least 1/125s to avoid camera shake, but IS allow you to shoot @ 1/60s. Great! if one shoots @ a wall, but not at freezing a swimmer... A faster lens may let you capture the same image @ 1/250s instead.

The other bonus over IS that a larger "aperature" gives you is the shallower DOF (and another reason to move to dSLR instead of a smaller sensor "prosumer" camera) which can also be put to good use such as popping out the subject from their defocus background!
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Old Dec 7, 2003, 12:30 PM   #9
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NHL and Ursa: OK, good advice. It seems that since I'll primarily be concerned with taking photos of moving objects in what may be poor light, I should try for a faster lens. I cancelled the 28-135mm Canon IS lens and ordered the 24-135mm f/2.8-4.5 Sigma. The Canon was f/3.5-5.6. I lose the IS feature but gain speed and bottom end. The Canon had an effective minimum length of 45mm while the Sigma is 39mm (factoring in the 1.6x of the Rebel). Both top out at 216mm, a point where I'll surely miss the IS feature! Since an L lens is not on the agenda, I hope this will work well for me. Anyone want to buy my supplied lens and added Canon UV filter from the Digital Rebel? Next I'll think about a decent wide angle lens.

Thanks to all! gary
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