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Old Oct 25, 2010, 9:58 AM   #21
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That particular shot was aperture priority, f/10 1/800 ISO400, zoomed out to 300mm. Its hit or miss getting the good shots as you only get 3fps.
Shot at the San Dimas Rodeo in 2006.
Tnx for the info. Gives me a good starting point.

Jim
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 12:41 AM   #22
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You said I was a little lacking on the gear side what kind of gear is the best for this kind of shots?What do you think about the 5D Markii any help Thanks
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 1:10 AM   #23
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 1:47 AM   #24
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You said I was a little lacking on the gear side what kind of gear is the best for this kind of shots?What do you think about the 5D Markii any help Thanks
The main aid would be longer reach, the 200 is short for the distance you are talking about. So 300 or 400mm f2.8 is the desired...... or if you can wait for things to come closer then to assist with light the 200mm f2 is great. The problem with all 3 is the cost. I would stick with what you have, get to the edge of the arena an wait until the action is less than 30 yards away unless you have lots of cash to splash. Get the ISO up if you need to and ensure a correct exposure in camera, if you are lightening up in post production then you are losing detail.

Oh, the reason the 5DmkII won't help is that it is full frame, you are reducing the field of view from the lens making it 1.6x wider. Not helpful when reach is an issue, also the AF is better on the 7D. The only gain is lower noise at high ISO.
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 7:41 AM   #25
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Yeah, What Mark said.
Two things killing you in your photos are lens reach and available light. Its desirable to fill as much of the frame as you can, if reach on the lens cant do it then change positions and find a better spot to shoot from, if the action isnt coming to you then you have to go to the action. With the lighting aspect on camera flash is not going to work for this or retty much anything else. It can be used in a pinch for a "snapshot" but always ends with the same effect. A nice 580 ex with a better beamer attached would do more justice.

Judging by the amount of frame filled with a 200mm a 400mm from that position would be more suitable and with poor lighting an f2.8 aperture with a higher ISO would be needed as well. The camera body will handle it but to get the results I assume you are trying to get its going to take several thousand $$ in glass. Not trying to downplay anyones gear, just telling it like it is.

Your new image is much better but flat and a bit slow on the shutter speed evident from the motion blur. Cant tell you much on this image and what to improve on settings, cant see exif data.
As Mark stated if you underexpose and try and brighten the photo with post process you lose detail and the images come out flat, even in a well lit scenario. This is one of the most common issues with flat images, underexposure. Its better to overexpose a tad then to underexpose, one the detail gets lost in the shadows you cant get it back, blown highlights are much easier to deal with.

Last edited by JustinThyme; Oct 26, 2010 at 7:45 AM.
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