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Old Jan 20, 2011, 1:28 PM   #11
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The ceremony and formal group shots will be in an open "palapa" at the end of a dock. That has completely open sides and a high much angled "cathedral" roof of natural timber. Given the distance up and the various angles of the wood I don't see much scope for bouncing flash off it, though the colour would be good if I could. The ceremony is due to be late-ish afternoon, but the time isn't fixed yet. This close to the equator (17 degrees) the sun goes down a bit like turning out a light, so the actual timing is crucial. If it's a clear sunny day with no or minimal cloud (as it usually is) there may be lovely almost horizontal late sun shining straight onto the couple/group. Sadly though there are large support pillars than will create wide vertical shadows, and I think the pillars are too close together to avoid those shadows completely. The sun will come from the front/stage right.

For the formal group shots I was proposing using a flash & umbrella, maybe shoot-through but probably reflector (white or silver), on a stand at front/stage right augmenting and not obstructing the sunlight, plus a gold reflector held by an assistant at front/stage left. Camera will be hand-held. No second flash in use.

For close-ups of B&G during the ceremony (in the same basic location), for pre wedding prep shots (inside a room somewhere), and for candids during the reception (all open air), plus some staged shots of B&G on the beach, I propose mounting a flash on the camera, pointing up into a deflector/angled reflector mounted on the flash. An assistant will take similar candids using my spare camera and a similar flash/reflector arrangement.

For neither camera do I currently have a suitable f2.8 lens. On my 5D I have f4.0 and on my 7D I will have around f4.0 variable (lens not bought yet). I do have a Canon nifty fifty but I wasn't proposing to use it. I don't want to buy a lens that I may not use much afterwards, or I might have bought a Canon EF-S 17-55 f2.8. I could perhaps buy the non-VC version of the Tamron 17-50 f2.8, which is supposedly good and relatively cheap, but of course wouldn't fit my 5D. I don't know of any EF-mount f2.8 standard zooms that are affordable. Perhaps the Tamron 28-75 f2.8 - would that work on FF?

But I'm hoping that with these lighting arrangements I can get away with slower lenses that I already own. What do you think?
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 9:46 PM   #12
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... I was going to buy the 580EX2 - is the Nissin 866 as powerful? I don't have any flashes as yet and do want two - at that price perhaps two of the Nissins?
The Di866 Guide Number is 60 so it does edge out the 580 slightly @ 58, but that's not a deciding factor...

For me the Nissin (like the Metz) dual-head is much more valuable, and @ $269 I would definitely get two!
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 11:13 PM   #13
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You mention Metz. Do you think Nissin is preferable to Metz?
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 11:24 PM   #14
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it is more of personal preference, I tried the nissin an it is a good flash. But I just prefer the metz setup better. But the Di 866 is a great value. 329 vs 375 or 400 for the metz 58 AF-1 or the AF-2.
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Old Jan 21, 2011, 12:37 AM   #15
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I've just been reading reviews of several models of Metz, of the Nissin 866, and the Canon 580EX2 on Amazon. Some of the criticisms of both Metz and Nissin (particularly Metz) were rather serious, and the Canon seemed to be loved. One thing that people are concerned about I hadn't even considered, which is the accuracy of E-TTL metering. If it isn't accurate the flash is semi-useless.....

This is all very confusing. At present I feel most inclined to stump up for the Canon, but it is an awful lot of money.
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Old Jan 21, 2011, 3:01 AM   #16
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I've never made a purchase from these guys, but they offer the 580 for $420. http://www.42photo.com/pd-productid-...igital_slr.htm
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Old Jan 21, 2011, 6:49 AM   #17
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Don't know - are 42nd Street reputable?
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Old Jan 21, 2011, 6:52 AM   #18
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Don't know - are 42nd Street reputable?
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/42ND_St_Photo
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Old Jan 21, 2011, 7:01 AM   #19
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One thing that people are concerned about I hadn't even considered, which is the accuracy of E-TTL metering. If it isn't accurate the flash is semi-useless.....
This has to do with the camera metering, and nothing with the flash (just like the lens AF). It a close loop system:
1. The camera tells the flash to send a pre-flash to the scene when the shutter is pressed
2. The camera then evaluate what it sees through the lens in term of exposure
3. The camera then commands the flash to output the amount it deems is correct

-> Now there are lot of way the camera can meter wrong when it evaluated a scene, even without flash, like a bride in a white dress so the image will be underexposed (regardless of flash or not), as the camera meter is calibrated for grey and not white... Shoot the same scene in a dark church with all the grooms wearing black tux and you get overexposure instead from the flash (regardless of brand)!

Just do a search on this same forum and see how many folks have the exposure problem with Canon flashes... Like I said I have all three in both Canon and Nikon. They all work the same, the only difference is the guy behind the camera:
http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fl...sh-fetish.html
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Old Jan 21, 2011, 7:43 AM   #20
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... But I just prefer the metz setup better.
IMO it's a matter of preference
This is how I would rate them:
580EX - DOS
58AF-x - Window
Di866 - iOS

The 580 has the most buttons, it's controlled by cycling through icons, and sometime you need to press two buttons simultaneously to switch modes. Very archaic

The Metz has a Menu key and only the relevant function would show under its key below the alpha-numeric LCD display... BMW kind, German efficiency at it best

Now the Nissin is like a Droid/iPhone GUI, its color screen even rotates when the camera is flipped sideway. Again you access it through Menu and cursor but unlike the Metz it remembers where you are and the mode, for example to change exposure on the flash just hit the up/down key. I vote it for the best display if you're fooling around in the dark (for example the 580 you can see the display but you can't tell which key to press in the dark, at the least its wheel help a bit)
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