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Old Feb 2, 2011, 10:14 PM   #31
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Old Feb 4, 2011, 6:15 PM   #32
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I have the 430ex and been studying light and dslr like crazy recently. Everything I read is Camera AND flash in pure manual mode which negates the fact of needing a master with E-TTL.

I purchased a Yungunu RF-602 transmitter / receiver to wirelessly trigger my flash, and just purchased a Yununu YN-460II flash for around $45.00.

Around $100.00 and I have a 2nd off camera flash with (2) recievers and a transmitter to fire both flashes...

Something to consider.
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Old Feb 4, 2011, 7:03 PM   #33
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I think people do not give ttl a fair chance, and ttl has their uses.
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Old Feb 5, 2011, 11:02 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince00 View Post
... Everything I read is Camera AND flash in pure manual mode which negates the fact of needing a master with E-TTL.
Not true at all

-> I always put the camera on manual when using Speedlites in order to control both the shutter and aperture, BUT the flashes (both Master and slaves) remained on E-TTL: Their exposures are still controlled automatically by the camera Electronically Through-The-Lens, even when I performed ratio, i.e. what group of flash is outputting more than another, this is the quickest set-up with the minimum of fuss!

Now in the studio, I use both camera and strobes on manual, but I do rely on my handheld meter to adjust their ratio manually. I.e. one can not just point and shoot automatically like above
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Old Feb 5, 2011, 1:45 PM   #35
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I've been studying up on this since I started this thread. E-TTL is what allows sub-professional photogs to get the right exposure. In full automatic mode the camera measures the test flash response as seen through the lens and then adjusts the exposure and flash strength accordingly. I can't say I like surrendering control of the exposure entirely, but it works very well. This setting is a slam dunk for my formal wedding shots, as I'm not going to have the chance to use interesting lighting options given the size of the groups. I might cheat and use the camera's metering system to tell me where to set the system manually to help ensure I get the same results every time rather than tweaking each photo individually in post processing to get them to have the same look, as Mark1616 suggested.

The other mode I'm tinkering with is aperture priority. This is an entirely different metering approach, as the camera meters for the background and uses the flash purely for fill. If the background is dark the shutter will be long, allowing for blur. This may not work out for all the situations I'm prepping for, but I want to have as many tricks up my sleeve as I can manage.

I'm glad I snagged the Nissin 866 for less, as all the prices I'm seeing right now jumped to $329. Makes it hard to buy another one, though...
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Old Feb 6, 2011, 1:13 PM   #36
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^^ Agreed, I should of mentioned setting up in a studio environment for portrait shots manual on both camera and flash would be preferred for complete control, doing a run and gun the TTL setup is essential in my mind as well, just have to watch and be aware of when certain light situations will trick the camera and under / overexpose.

If I had the money I would get a 580 ex II and master / slave in TTL for regular shooting, and when I setup for portraits I can then manual on both.

580ex is too expensive for me which is why I grabbed a Yungunu 460 for now and see what santa brings as I get better.
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Old Feb 6, 2011, 4:21 PM   #37
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I would skip the yn 460, and go with the yn 467 or 468, they support e-ttl and can be a slave. They are okay flash for the money, build is not great. But they seem to work and have been tested by allot of canon users. But I would go with a nissin di622 or metz 48 or 50 for a hotshoe flash over the YN if price is not an issue.

If you want a good master and do not want to pay the canon price. I would serious look at the nissin di 866 or the metz 58 AF-1 or AF-2.
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