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Old Sep 19, 2004, 1:49 PM   #11
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I think you are being too harsh on Canon. I did look at the other movie and it was all shot at a certain time of day, ie midday where there was no significant change in lighting. I would say that the photographer had the camera on a manual setting of say; f16 250th sec, so when the sun peeped out it would not alter the overall appearance. If he had an auto setting, then yes, there would be some alterations.....Just keep practising and enjoy it. A bad workman............etc.
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Old Sep 19, 2004, 11:51 PM   #12
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Let me try one more time with you guys. Now don't take this personal. The rebel is a perfectly fine still camera. But it sucks when it comes to time lapse and animation.

I have put another time lapse movie that I shot today on my website. I shot this movie with a betacam. The camera exposure was locked off. I speed up the footage so that it is the equivalent of one frame every five seconds. This happens to be the same rate at which I shot with the digital rebel. But you will notice with this time lapse that there is a smooth transition of exposure from frame to frame. The sun gets brighter, but the over all exposure of the image doesn't change...and thus no annoying flickering and fluttering like you get with the Digital rebel.

This to me is pretty conclusive. I know that you guys will continue to make excuses for the rebel, but I think you should accept the fact that there is some sort of additional processing of the image going on even after you set the aperature and the shutter. I for one would like to know what the hell is happening. Thats part of the fun of photography...having complete control of the final image. If canon has a sensor that is in some sense unpredictable . . .then, well, I think that should be a concern for most photographers.

Heres the link. I called the movie "smooth exposure"
http://f2.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/...ase.yahoo.com/
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 12:55 AM   #13
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stats79 wrote:
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I know that you guys will continue to make excuses for the rebel, but I think you should accept the fact that there is some sort of additional processing of the image going on even after you set the aperature and the shutter.
Yes there is. The camera will still try to adjust the white balance for every shot, unless you set it to something other than Auto (and you didn't mention anything about the way white balance was set).

The images will also be compressed with JPEG, unless you shoot RAW, with the amount of detail that can be compressed, varying by the scene (which is changing a little in your examples). Chances are the JPEG Processing is not causing your problem.

Try the advise some of the other guys gave you (like setting white balance to a preset value; or shooting in RAW and applying the same white balance to each frame later).

Without the original frames (or at least higher resolution frames), I find it very difficult to see what is happening. Theredoes seem to be somevariance. Looking at the left side of the screen at the tree line, it actually looks like camera/lens movement or focus is some of it); but there could be some other factors, too.

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Old Oct 29, 2004, 1:32 AM   #14
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Had the same thing happen to me... It's not the camera, it's the lens. If you're shooting timelapse with the kit lens it will do that, try a better lens.
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 2:55 PM   #15
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here'sa follow up:

I did a table top experiment. A time-lapse of an ice cube melting, manual mode, auto WB, no change in lighting yielded slightly inconsistent images.

I repeated the experiment with manual white balance an it was solid!! perfect!!

It seems that auto white balance varies slightly even under identical lighting.
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 7:28 PM   #16
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How do you even do a time lapse with the drebel? Do you have to manually press the shutter button for each frame or does the drebel have some kind of function where you can make it take a picture say every minute by itself?
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 7:41 PM   #17
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amateur...can i see the timelapse?

that sounds awesome!

i gotta try this....the only thing i don't know wat i'd do for is exposure...do you slowly fade up? or do you shoot in auto? or keep the same settings for the whole thing?

thanks :-D

Vito
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 7:44 PM   #18
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Yeah, I have done some indoors time-lapse work with tungsten light and haven't had any problems. So I don't think it is the lens. Where the issue shows up is outdoors. And yes I have tried this with autowhite balance disabled. To me it looks like there is some sort of autogain-type of adjustment going on. I would have to know alot more about the sensor and the camera setup to say what the real problem is. But there is definitely an issue. Too bad, would have been a great way to do time-lapse work.
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 9:44 PM   #19
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Hi Vito,

Unfortunately, I inadvertently deleted the images, they were in a temp folder. I hadn't created a video file. I viewed the series by advancing through them in ACDSee. It was a series of about 30 images taken at 15 sec intervals. I think it would look best to keep the settings constant (including white balance). IOW, if the scene progresses from light to dark, keep the exposure settings constant and let the time lapse go from nominal to underexposed. If the exposure range is extreme, (like a sunset)I think the best way way is to use a video camera and speed up the video. That tends to average out the exposure variations.

However if you want to compress say, 24 hours into a 1 minute video, a still camera is the way to go. (eg: capture 1 frame every 96 seconds, playback at15 per second) Doing this with video would take too much hard drive space and rendering time.


Planters, I used Canon's Remote Capture software to capture the images (bundled with the camera). You just plug in the USB, launch Remote Capture, connect and you're good to go. You can set image quality and other camera settings from the software. You can capture to the CF card, hard drive, or both. The USB isn't very fast, in order to capture at 15 sec interval I had to lower quality to medium/fine. This is because the software won't fire the shutter until the last image hasdownloaded.Of course if it's for video you could go 800x600 and I'm sure there would be no problem with USB speed unless you had a very short interval. You can also fire the shutter manually and the program will make use of the buffer and download the images to HD automatically.

Hey Stats, maybe you're right that even with ALL the camera's settings locked down, there is still some kind of variable processing going on.Maybe in the jpg encoding, have you tried shooting RAW?
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 10:10 PM   #20
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is this all in auto mode? or keeping the same exposure in manual?

Vito

(thanks for the help btw...i'm most definetely gonna try this someday soon)

Vito
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