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Old Feb 16, 2005, 4:22 AM   #11
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PeterP wrote:
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Time for a monopod, helps relieve the weight strain, and relatively easy to keep out of the way.

Peter.


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[b]HSM. Think it's about an $800 lens. I love this lens. All shots are handheld but it did start getting heavy after 3 hours! LOL!
[/quote]

I've got a descent monopod but haven't used it much lately... I'm used to shooting gymnastics where I get long breaks between the action and it doesn't last nearly as long! LOL! So next time i decide to shoot tennis I'll be taking Mr. One Leg! :lol:
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 4:40 AM   #12
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Hi,

Quick question. I have Neat Image. Is it best to use this program before sharpening, or sharpen first then use the noise reduction program??

I was alwas under the impression that sharpening was the last operation. ?

thanks in advance
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 11:52 AM   #13
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This is subject to debate.

I use it as the absolute first thing that I do after opening the image. This is because if I can't find a location which I can train it on, then I can use a premade profile. If you alter the image in a way that effects the noise you can't use a noise profile (for example, sharpening, contrast, exposure... almost anything.)

There is basic agrement that sharpening should be the last thing you do. And its output dependent. I sharpen more for print than for the web, for example.

Eric
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 12:30 PM   #14
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As Eric mentioned, the issue of sharpen or post-process in other ways first, then do noise reduction, or vice a versa is a subject of debate.

Over time I have come to the conclusion that it is best (at least for my shots) to do noise reduction right after raw conversion. I find that if I push noise reduction off until after doing other things like levels or curves adjustments, the noise tends to become accentuated by those other adjustments and becomes even tougher to get rid of with the noise reduction software.

I might even do a very weak second noise reduction step after doing all the various post processing adjustments. It just depends on the image.
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 2:17 PM   #15
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It's interesting that you mention that geoffs. I some times (but very rarely) do a second neat image pass. Usually if I have to do an excessive amount of sharpening. But I have to be careful and I often have to use masks to not do it in places where it destroys detail.

Eric
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 4:46 PM   #16
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Sharpen after noise reduction. You don't want to sharpen the noise.

So, W.W.S.D...

...is... What Would Spock Do?

I'm sure this has been asked many times, but I've seen it a lot lately and had to ask.


-jb
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 4:56 PM   #17
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eric s wrote:
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It's interesting that you mention that geoffs. I some times (but very rarely) do a second neat image pass. Usually if I have to do an excessive amount of sharpening. But I have to be careful and I often have to use masks to not do it in places where it destroys detail.
I don't do the second pass very often, Eric. I will, however, often use masks as you mentioned to make sure that I am only applying noise reduction to the areas that really need it, usually the bg areas or large areas of solid color.
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 5:33 PM   #18
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Guess who just realised he missed the second page. I was too busy looking at the photos on page one to notice the link to page two!

I'm just trying to imagine how many memory cards you must have filled up during the three hours!
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 5:37 PM   #19
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-jb wrote:
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Sharpen after noise reduction. You don't want to sharpen the noise.

So, W.W.S.D...

...is... What Would Spock Do?

I'm sure this has been asked many times, but I've seen it a lot lately and had to ask.


-jb
yes...

logic would dictate that I conduct a quick experiment... I'm still a newbie when it comes to all this USM and Neat Image stuff... I do a lot of it in Idiot Mode. I've been doing Neat Image last thinking that I want to do the least number of jpg saves. So I do RAW to JPG. JPG > Neat Image > JPG. I guess I you could do RAW > TIFF > Neat Image > TIFF > PS > JPG...
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 6:04 PM   #20
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I open the RAW file with Adobe Camera RAW, then apply the Neat Image plugin inside Photoshop. The image stays 16-bit.

If I do a lot of work to an image, I save it as a Photoshop .psd file. If I need to make a jpeg or something, I make it from the .psd file. I don't necessarily keep any jpeg or tiff intermediate files, but I do keep the RAW and .psd files.


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