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Old Apr 3, 2005, 11:53 PM   #21
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Spec3 wrote:
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Now you ask what lens did I replace it with? Well it's the Tamron AF 28-75mm f2.8 XR Di Zoom.

Here are some pics from a hockey game I shot last night with the Tamron and my 20D. All shots are either f/2.8 1/640 or f/3.2 1/500 and ISO 1600...but through glass so things may not look that hot :lol:

w/Tamron
http://www.spec3.net/Panthers%20vs%2...204/index.html

Info and reviews of the Tamron
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/s...&cat=43&page=1
As I mentioned the pics were quite decent- considering the action associated with hockey, feloneous and otherwise, the shots were clear and the color was good (very realistic ice!).

Now to show my ignorance: The Tamron AF 28-75mm f2.8 XR Di appears to have a manual aperture adjustment ring to adjust the f-stop.. is that right? So it is an auto focus lens, but manual everything else? :?:

Would you please teach this old dog the new trick of how this lens functions in real life on the 20D?

THANK YOU!
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Old Apr 4, 2005, 1:31 AM   #22
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The aperture adjustment is done with the camera and not on the lens. If you shoot in either AV or M mode you just crank the little dial next to the shutter release to change the aperture.
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Old Apr 4, 2005, 2:00 PM   #23
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Nancy Gabby wrote:
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Does anybody have anything good to say about the EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM?

And is there any lens with the same zoom range with a fixed aperture?
I like mine very much, it has the same 3rd generation IS as the 17-85mm, but remember IS only stops camera shake it won't freeze action. So for your circus trip it would have been equally useless.

For low-light action shots an f4-5.6 lens of any focal length is of little use and IS is useless for moving subjects unless you like them blurred.

The lens is versatile and of excellent optical quality but it needs extra sharpening, either in-camera or in PS, but it's not suitable for low-light action work. So don't expect to get any Ice Hockey shots or Circus shots out of it, it's also not good for dawn and dusk wildlife shots.

It is however great for landscapes and good for everything in good light: fine for outdoor sports, well-lit portraits, wildlife, etc.

If you want fast & low light then you're going to need big glass.

I have some samples at: http://vanderwooks.blogspot.com


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Old Apr 5, 2005, 1:19 AM   #24
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Thanx, Peri..., I do remember you saying that you liked your lens, and I have seen your pics with it, and they look really, really good. I really want the lens, but it is so expensive. Have you had any problems yet with dust on your chip? Being that you have three lenses (you did buy another lens, didn't you???) now.
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Old Apr 5, 2005, 2:53 AM   #25
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Yes I have had dust problems, these typically start showing up at around f11 and by f16 they're very noticable. I try not to shoot below f14 though as image quality starts to deteriorate on the 20D.

I have a couple of dust spots that just won't go away and I have to fix them in PS. :-(

I am using sensor swabs at the moment, but the sensor brush looks like the way to go. It's expensive though and not available in the UK, so I'll have to order from Canada.

http://www.visibledust.com/

Edit: Bah, I took the plunge and ordered it online.
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Old Apr 5, 2005, 7:58 AM   #26
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Nancy Gabby wrote:
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Does anybody have anything good to say about the EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM?

And is there any lens with the same zoom range with a fixed aperture?
Yes - It's called a Sigma 100-300 f/4 :blah:
http://www.naturephotographers.net/je1001-2.html

... and the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8! :-)
http://www.shutterbug.net/test_repor...gma/index.html

Here's some images with the later handheld (and with a 2x teleconverter @ 600mm): http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...c.php?id=43233
http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...71&forum_id=11
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Old Apr 5, 2005, 10:14 AM   #27
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Now those lenses will be a lot better for low-light action!

But we're talking about big glass here:

DO = 720g & 10cm (zoomed in min length)

100-300 = 1440g & 22cm (twice as big and twice as heavy)

120-300 = 2600g & 27cm (3x the size and 4x the weight)

Neither of the Sigmas have IS, but that's the point really you're trading IS for big glass.

The 100-300 is actually cheaper than the DO, but isn't that much faster, only 1 stop at the tele end. The 120-300 is about twice the price of the DO.

If I were in that market and could afford it I would also seriously consider the Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS plus teleconverter.

Everything's a compromise.


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Old Apr 5, 2005, 12:13 PM   #28
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Thanks for the info. About touching up in PS.... I am not good using that program, other than basic color balance, constrast and I just started using the unsharp mask, still don't have it down, though. But how do you do the touch ups (for dust) in PS?
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Old Apr 5, 2005, 12:13 PM   #29
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Old Apr 5, 2005, 12:28 PM   #30
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Nancy Gabby

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Now those lenses will be a lot better for low-light action!
Thoses are the key points - IS and action doesn't mix in low-light!
You need the faster lens to get the desired shutter speed but you have to pay it in size and weight
-> but then you also gain the extra 'Bokeh' - Fantastic for outdoor fashion shoots :G

... BTW does that equates to 4x more light as well?
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