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Old Aug 26, 2006, 2:40 AM   #11
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That rule is only a guideline.

Some people can hand-hold to much slower speeds, if you are used to shooting handguns many of the same principles can be transferred.

Also some lenses have Image Stabilisation, which can help give a couple of extra stops. It doesn't help with freezing movement, but it can help overcome shake; for example 1/125 might be enough if the animal isn't moving too fast, but you might need 1/500 from the rule, so in that case IS would help give those two extra stops.

And finally, yes of course, with big lenses particularly, many - perhaps even most shots will be taken with a tripod, monopod or other rest.
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 9:00 AM   #12
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It also depends on the effect you wants to achieve - For example when panning the lens is following subject so their relative movements cancels each other out but you want to use a slower shutter speed to blur out the moving background behind.

Check out theses shots which were taken with the Sigma 100-300 f/4 (no IS) with a 1.4x TC, but the shutter speed is mostly around only 1/250s for examples: http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=82
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Old Aug 28, 2006, 10:25 AM   #13
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You need to get closer, you need to consider light. If handheld, bump up your ISO abd shutter speed, use a noise reduction filter after if you are worried about higher ISOs producing noise.

Canon 30D 100-300 usm lens at 125 mm F 8 ISO 650 ex 1/2000s

this one was shot at ISO 400 F8 shutter 2000 at 250mmwith my 300D. Hubby has the same lens as yours and it is soft at 300m. You have to make allowances for it

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