Help with Wide Angle lens for 300D ??

[eric s]

The two best that are reasonably available are either the B&W or hoya brands. I hear very, very good things about the S-HMC. the MC stands for multi-coated, the "s" for super (I think) I don't know what the "H" is for. The place I buy from rebrands Hoya filters and they were selling a S-MC, so I got that for a bit over $100. Expensive, but you all warned me that it would be.

I've heard good things (but not as many recommendations) for the B&W filters. Their multi-coated (at least at 2filter.com) are really expensive. Much more than the Hoya. Don't know why (or if its worth it.) So many people at DPreview.com recommended the Hoya that I went with that. If I dislike it, I know I can return it... that is why I buy from my local shop.

I've never purchased from here, but they have a decent amount of information on their site (along with selling the stuff):
http://www.2filter.com/

I beleive I've seen favorable posts about them here, though.

Eric

[barthold]

Eric, thanks! The S-MC hoya you got, does it have front threads?

Barthold

[NHL]

I bought all my filters from: http://www.2filter.com/
The S-HMC are double threaded, only the Ultra-thin ones has no front thread!

I believe you get a discount when you get 3 or more... BTW the difference between B+W and others filters are intead of being stamped out of sheets of glass, the B+W are molded just like the optics in the lens and polished down (ie costlier to manufacture).

[barthold]

You have the S-HMC one NHL?

Barthold

[NHL]

I have the 72mm S-HMC for my 28-135mm IS USM... It'll take the Canon's lens cap!

It's my slim 82mm for the 17-35 f/2.8 which I don't have a front thread and the B+W comes with a 'Tupperware' like lens cap (ie I may not need it now but may be when I move up to a full-frame)!

[eric s]

Thanks for the telling me about the difference between the hoya and B&W. Very interesting.

The S-MC that I was shown at the store had a *single* thread. (Note that NHL has the S-HMC.) Let me put mine on and see if the cap fits. I was told that it should, but we all know that reality doesn't always conform to what sales people say (my favored sales person was out....)

Nope, not a chance in hell. The cap does not fit on this filter. Damn, I will have to complain on Monday. I was told specifically that it is a Hoya, but made for Calumet, so it has Calumet's name stamped on it.

Now the question is if I should really care. Will I keep the polarizer on enough that having the cap fit maters? This lens came with a hood, but it isn’t a very deep one. The 100-400’s hood makes the UV filter I have on it almost unnecessary…. Almost nothing can get to the glass.

Eric

[barthold]

NHL, so what is the real difference between the regular Hoya circular polarizer filters and the S-HMC versions, other than about 2x in price?

Barthold

[NHL]

I believe it's the chemical coating, and you almost have to hold the two filters side to side and look at them from an angle. There'll be less of a reflection as the angle get more acute on one than the other (ie the pricier one).

[sjms]

The H stands for Hoya or Hoya Multi Coating HMC. SMC has "ehnanced" layers.

http://www.2filter.com/faq/facts.html

i have shot with MC UV filters since 1977 have yet for one to cause flare. i use Hoya and B&W interchangeably. never found fault in either. both have excellent antireflective coatings. most of this flare issue i have found tends to be less then accurate info. i have asked repeatedly on another site for examples of theis effect using the above stated filters. the answers in return were as follows:

1-i got rid of them or no longer can find them.
2-dead air(no response)
3- the dog ate my homework

response to them as follows:

1-i have over 10000 slides home (hey it has been 27+ years). not all are perfect(ok maybe some are a little less perfect the others) but i keep them because the have some value if only to learn by. tossing a image due to some flair is easily remedied. remember PS. and mostly its a poor lens design that causes flare not one little sliver of MC glass.
2- typical answer
3- riiight! i believe you.

which would you rather scratch or chip a $70+ filter or a god knows how much to replace front element and time lost waiting at your front door for it to arrive as your going through withdrawl symptoms without it. please don't give me just keep on the lens shade. they cost $50+ to replace too and can be somewhat of a pain in some situations. they get lost easier too as we're swinging it around in back carrying the big chunk of technology around.

here are some shots some directly into the sun some just off angle and at altitudes from sea level to almost 13000 ft. here is where flare occurs most often.

http://www.pbase.com/crusader/atmospherics

[barthold]

Sjms,

wow, those are some AMAZING pictures! I love them!

Thanks for your filter insights, nothing beats experience. I'll go look for a B&W or Hoya MC filter. Do you know what The 'Sharp Cut' in Canon's UV Haze (sharp cut) filters mean?

BTW, I always have a UV filter on my lenses. Like you said, I don't want my front element to scratch, ever.

Thanks again,
Barthold