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Old May 17, 2007, 1:02 AM   #11
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not just tele converters..but i have been burned a lot with flying birds..the technique requires a lot of learning and i am just in the first grade of learning..i have got very few shots spot on. and the equipment i had those times werent really meant for flying birds atleast..(on a comparison with the other equipemtn i had)

I could track a flying bird with exact similar set up like Camera+ 120-300 with 1.4x or 2X tele with a 5D more than the other set up, 1D mark II and 120-300 with 1.4x or 2X tele.

I am not saying ur technique is bad, all i am trying to say is initially i wanted to blame on the lens, or the TC or even the camera..

I took some still shots with both the set up and it worked so better.

THe lens could be heavy enuff to cause a minor shake as the shutter is released..or lot of other reasons..

Shoot some stil objects in a similar light...that shud give a good idea on the sharpness.

But this tracking birds is a process i am learning still....i havent got great shots tracking inspite i haveone of the best AF systems available(the 1D mark II)...so i am trying everyday going to the park and trying different ways to master this technique.

And no offence was meant to anyone with this post. its just the same position i am in too.. i am getting more keepers tracking with a 5D over mark II.. dont even ask me how..but i am just learning the mark II...ai servo in 5D has got me pretty good shots...while 1d mark II i am sure wlll get more shots for me..but i will have to put the effort to learn.

sorry if the post was out of topic
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Old May 17, 2007, 6:31 AM   #12
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squirl033

This image is indicative of what you should get out of your set up - Wide open 100-400L with Sigma 1.4x -> 560mm f/8 @ 1/640s focusing on a 1D MrkII:






-> Your Kenko TC is not reporting the correct aperture which is f/8 (not f/6.3) which fooled the camera into focusing but probably not at its best performance most of the time - I would try this on a brickwall @ 45 degree angle and see if there's any front to back offset first before attempting flying shots... As you can tell from the surrounding leaves that the DOF is razor thin at this focal lenght (even @ f/8 ) so there's no room for any AF errors!

IMO - The Sigma EX 80-400 f4.5-5.6 should get slightly better result than this L by having the better MTF...
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Old May 17, 2007, 11:31 AM   #13
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nymphetamine wrote:
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.. i am getting more keepers tracking with a 5D over mark II.. dont even ask me how..but i am just learning the mark II...ai servo in 5D has got me pretty good shots...
Could it be your 1D MrkII is not set-up correctly?

In the custom function you can program the camera C.Fn-21 to prioritize the shutter over the AF in AI-servo so the higher the frame rate the less sharp the image will be... Something got to give!

-> This is why I stick to single-shot AF on smaller birds - AI-servo is an exercise in futility especially on a 1D MrkII when the target is as small as the AF point...
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Old May 17, 2007, 12:51 PM   #14
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i have kept the AI servo speed to fast tracking. And as i said, the 1D cameras are nothing but learning process....one has to slowly learn the different custom settings to even the normal settings and this camera is just two weeks old with me...it grows on me over the 5D. And with the 120-300 attached i find it much easier to carry the 1D over the 5D.

And i am so getting used to the two button changes that i am finding it sometime hard to figure out the 5D :G:roll:

I have had the 30D before i bought the 5D a year back. The tracking in 5D is way better with those hidden focus points.

And as u said, i am alos learning to focus with single point using the * key and trying to get the DOF...but i aint close enuff to mster it....i am so far away from mastering it or even getting few decent shots..

Will try with different CFn 21 and see which one works for me. Honestly this camera grows on me more than ever...so much to learn.



and hence it makes me even tougher to decide between 1D mark II and 5D. I love the 5D images at 12MP.. with the 85L the images are godly with 5D.

Somebody make me take a decision ebtween these two
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Old May 17, 2007, 4:36 PM   #15
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C.Fn 20 will also helps for wildlife

You want this to be low so it won't alternate between the background and subject as often while the sport shooters may want this @ high so they can switch quickly between subjects @ various distances...

-> Might as well learn at the right settings than practice with a camera which is not configured for the type of shooting you are doing! :idea:
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Old May 17, 2007, 6:34 PM   #16
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Might as well learn at the right settings than practice with a camera which is not configured for the type of shooting you are doing!

totally accepted . I use the mark II solely for wildlife and action(sports from baseball, soccer tosome local football)while use the 5D for rest. And i have the mark II for only few days. Give me some time and i will learn using it the right way and use it for the right type of shooting :-)
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Old May 17, 2007, 10:57 PM   #17
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The Kenko converts are not the worst in the world, but you probably would have been much better off with the Sigma. I have the 1.4x and 2x Sigma converters that I use with my 70-200 and 50-500 Sigma lenses with little if any loss in image quality. Another thing to keep in mind is at those long zooms any camera movement is greatly exagerated, a tripod is almost a must.
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Old May 23, 2007, 8:47 AM   #18
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NHL wrote:
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squirl033

This image is indicative of what you should get out of your set up - Wide open 100-400L with Sigma 1.4x -> 560mm f/8 @ 1/640s focusing on a 1D MrkII:






-> Your Kenko TC is not reporting the correct aperture which is f/8 (not f/6.3) which fooled the camera into focusing but probably not at its best performance most of the time - I would try this on a brickwall @ 45 degree angle and see if there's any front to back offset first before attempting flying shots... As you can tell from the surrounding leaves that the DOF is razor thin at this focal lenght (even @ f/8 ) so there's no room for any AF errors!

IMO - The Sigma EX 80-400 f4.5-5.6 should get slightly better result than this L by having the better MTF...
NHL,

yep... the lens wasn't reporting the correct aperture. the problem was, i was putting the TC on my camera body, then putting the lens on, instead of putting the TC on the lens first. didn't know it mattered. but with it giving me correct aperture, and not fooling the camera, the results have been much better... still not up to what i've seen from other people with 1.4's, but certainly much better than what i had been getting...


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Old May 23, 2007, 9:48 PM   #19
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squirl033 wrote:
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... still not up to what i've seen from other people with 1.4's, but certainly much better than what i had been getting...
It could be related to the TC as well...

The Sigma (and Canon) are "matched" TC's designed specially for longer telephoto with more correcting elements (5 as opposed to 3) in them so they extend further into the lens. As the result of this inner thickness they will collide with the rear element of shorter lenses unlike the Kenko
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Old May 24, 2007, 9:04 AM   #20
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since i have no use for a TC on my shorter lenses (why use one on a 24-135, when i have an 80-400?), that extra depth isn't an issue. perhaps i'd get better results with a Sigma TC, if it's made to work with my lens?
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