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Old Dec 27, 2007, 1:35 PM   #11
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calitran wrote:
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NHL, what is a flash pulse?
FYI: http://www.naturephotographers.net/a.../jm0503-1.html



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would a canon speedlite 580 or 430 be sufficient?
A 580EX will be more sufficient than a 430EX
-> As after you bounced against a ceiling or diffused the flash, some light output will be lost - The more power the better



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also, what is the purpose of a flashpoint flash diffuser?
FYI: http://www.lumiquest.com/how.htm

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Old Dec 27, 2007, 1:40 PM   #12
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nymphetamine wrote:
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U should also check the sigma DG Super(Cheper but more functional) option.
It's also more powerful!
-> For example (GN - Guide number):
580EX - GN is 58
Metz 58AF-1N - GN is 58 (but dual-head)
Sigma 530DG Super - GN is 53
Sigma 500DG Super - GN is 50
430EX - GN is 43 (the lowest)
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Old Dec 27, 2007, 3:16 PM   #13
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And by the way, even if you're in a place where bouncing isn't an option (peaked wooden ceiling in this house) you can get some excellent results with direct flash with some practice:












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Old Dec 27, 2007, 6:11 PM   #14
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those are terrific examples...especially the kid picture feels more like studio lights to me..nicely lit
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Old Dec 27, 2007, 7:56 PM   #15
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JohnG, can you tell me what lens you used and at what shutter, aperture for those pictures. Also, how far were you from the subjects and did you zoom? i can't seem to get the whole subject in focus like how you did, nice pictures.
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Old Dec 27, 2007, 10:09 PM   #16
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calitran wrote:
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JohnG, can you tell me what lens you used and at what shutter, aperture for those pictures. Also, how far were you from the subjects and did you zoom? i can't seem to get the whole subject in focus like how you did, nice pictures.
The shots were with 24-105L at f4 (terrific lens even wide open), Canon 1dmkIII, sigma 500 dg super, CB Junior flash bracket and stofen omni-bounce difuser. The bracket adds a bit of weight to the outfit but it's money well spent when you can't bounce. Distances varied but all under 10 feet. ISO 200 to 400, shutter speed varied as well from 1/60 up to 1/200 depending on how much light was in the room.

As to your comments about whole subject being in focus that is a matter of DOF and of proper focus. Tough to give you specific advice without an example of yours to discuss.

As others have mentioned, bouncing the flash is always preferable. But you can still get good results with direct flash.

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Old Dec 28, 2007, 7:32 AM   #17
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JohnG wrote:
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But you can still get good results with direct flash.
IMO when a light modifier is used, it's technically not a direct flash anymore since this device reduces the flash output by 2-stops!
That's what a Sto-Fen is: It diffuses the light (make it less harsh) and send it in all direction (i.e. light up a whole arc around the head)

-> Ditto with an umbrella when you shoot-through as a diffuser instead of reflected with the flash backward... Just different ways of enlarging a point source which seems to be the problem with direct flash:
http://www.stofen.com/Info/HowItWorks.htm
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