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Old Oct 14, 2004, 5:06 PM   #11
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J_R wrote:
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... Standard zoom lens with an Image Stabilizer and high zoom ratio. With the Image Stabilizer turned on, you can obtain sharp, natural-looking pictures in dim lighting without using flash or a tripod. Very handy for places where flash is prohibited. Uses ring-type USM for swift, silent autofocus and full-time manual focus.

I have found this to be somewhat true. I am no pro by any means but have seen may pros using 2.8 IS lenses indoors w/out flash or tripod.

Should have mine very soon :-)
Well it's partially true if you are shooting a statue

--> Instead of shooting with a minimum of 1/250s which is what's required to prevent camera shake @ 200mm, you can now shoot @ 1/60s with IS which is 2-stop slower; However, will 1/60s stop the actions of the gymnast? I guess some pros can tell you that it won't (the IS can not detect subject movements)

If you have to shoot @ 1/250s anyway to stop the action why do you need the tripod (or IS)? F/2.8 is all that is required... for that extra light :?
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 1:44 AM   #12
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Well if I don't need the IS then that's great news. The non-IS unit is much cheaper.
Thx:?
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 5:12 AM   #13
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J_R wrote:
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... The non-IS unit is much cheaper.
If you are not particular about brand, the Sigma unit is cheaper still :-):-):-)
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Old Oct 15, 2004, 5:13 PM   #14
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NHL wrote:
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If you have to shoot @ 1/250s anyway to stop the action why do you need the tripod (or IS)? F/2.8 is all that is required... for that extra light :?
Even at 1/250 the IS helps. 1/250 at 200mm on a 1.6x crop camera isn't that fast, and you can still get blurry pictures due to shake. Working on technique to hold the camera still helps too though :-)

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Old Oct 15, 2004, 9:25 PM   #15
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It's just a rule of thumb more or less, with pratice Mr_Saginaw did it @ 1/160s with no IS :-)

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...31&forum_id=65
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Old Oct 16, 2004, 9:44 AM   #16
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NHL wrote:
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It's just a rule of thumb more or less, with pratice Mr_Saginaw did it @ 1/160s with no IS :-)

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...31&forum_id=65
Understood it's a rule of thumb. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that the IS will help, and will give you a higher chance at a sharp image.

That is a nice image you link to, the shallow DOF makes it more interesting too.

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Old Oct 16, 2004, 10:14 AM   #17
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BTW the 1.6x crop does not change the focal lenght of the lens like a 1.4x teleconverter would, the distance from the lens to the film plane (ie the focal lenght) stays constant:

The image projected from a 200mm lens onto the film/sensor plane is no different on a full-frame than on a 10/20D -> the displacement from the camera movement is the same (ie there is no magnification of 'shake'). The cropped camera just 'see' a smaller FOV that's all and the rest of the image circle is discarded
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Old Oct 17, 2004, 11:43 PM   #18
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NHL,

That's correct, but the effect (blurry picture) of the displacement due to shake is bigger than on a full frame sensor. Think of it this way, the same shake (displacement) now happens on a smaller sensor. Percentage wise that results in a bigger displacement, and therefore a more blurry picture. Yes?

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Old Oct 20, 2004, 10:30 AM   #19
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From my limited experience (only 100-400L IS), I see that IS is helpfull if the subject is not moving. If I can get fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action, I don't need the IS. I have got bad shots with IS and without IS and I believe, most of them are my handholding issues and 10D focussing. Maybe I need to run some controlled tests.
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 12:10 PM   #20
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It's a double edge sword (and why there's an "OFF" button):

If a subject is moving in the upward direction, and the camera is compensating for a shake in the downward direction -> you have now twice the displacement on the subject to overcome
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