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Old Mar 3, 2006, 11:02 AM   #11
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Holy mackerel :!:
I've never seen anyone who actually owned that 300-800 before :?
Lens envy strikes again :blah:
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Old Mar 3, 2006, 12:15 PM   #12
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Romy aka Liquidstone from philippine owns one along with 400mm f5.6 prime. That 300-800 is comparable to the big guns from canon.

In regards to 2x on 100-400L or Bigma, I will save, naa.. Even 1.4xTC on 100-400 (the lens I have) is only good in very good light and for stationary subjects. AF is slow. If you want to use 1.4xTC all the time, 400mm prime is much better choice and this one is cheaper too at around $1100. It is light and really good for birds in flight shots.

BTW - There is nothing long enough for birding unless you plan to shoot at a feeder with a blind all the time.
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Old Mar 3, 2006, 2:15 PM   #13
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-> This is one of the reason I really "want"(not need) a camera with built-in anti-shake - Think about it: all in one package one can take a pick out of 400, 500, 600, and an 800 (and use the low 300mm just for locating the target)!!! :lol: :-) :G

BTW Sam's Club used to have a "packaged deal" for both the 120-300 f/2.8EX and this Sigmonster at a great price...
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Old Mar 5, 2006, 4:45 AM   #14
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The "pro standard" for birding in a Canon lens is the 500 f/4. If you don't want to spend that much or if its too big and heavy, the 400 f/5.6 or 300 f/4 IS are great lenses. Both are easily hand held and very sharp. The 300 IS is great for stationary subjectsand is effectively 3 stops faster than the 400 (2 stops because of the IS and 1 because its an f/4 vs. f/5.6), but the 400 is faster focusing and arguably sharper in good light (it is a GREAT in-flight lens).



I would suggest that you look at primes because shooting birds you would find that you are almost always at the max zoom, and primes are sharper and faster than zooms.
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Old Mar 5, 2006, 6:16 AM   #15
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tjk3052 wrote:
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I would suggest that you look at primes because shooting birds you would find that you are almost always at the max zoom, and primes are sharper and faster than zooms.
I tend to hear this a lot - Problem is quite a few years back this may be true, but modern zooms with computer designs and NC machines, they tend to be not valid any more...

Case in point - both equally fast lenses @ constant f/4: :idea:




When was the EF-300 f/4L IS designed??? -




Here's the 100-300 f/4 EX DG from Sigma:


Yes at least according to the MTF, technically the EX zoom has a slight edge over the Canon prime (the black curves are @ wide open)!
Blue curves are @ f/8 on the L and Sigma do not plot at f/8 since they all tend to be higher and better than wide open (both red and green) anyway


1. I don't know about how other shoot, but I usually start @ the short end to locate my bird and zoom-in (especially birds in flight)
2. My birds tend to hop about, and when I was in the rain forest a few week back they tend to be more friendly than the avians in the states
3. -> Tape your zoom fix @ the max position and see if you can live with it first before going down the prime path! :-)

Here's another: http://www.pbase.com/fstopjojo/zoomvprimes
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Old Mar 5, 2006, 1:06 PM   #16
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i think you should try out the KM 5D, it has anti-shake in the body, so for birdwatching i think youd get very nice shots. just my two cents
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Old Mar 5, 2006, 2:03 PM   #17
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DorkUnderwater wrote:
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i think you should try out the KM 5D, it has anti-shake in the body, so for birdwatching i think youd get very nice shots. just my two cents
Uh oh... now you've done it.... mentioning another camera model in a forum specific to Canon Lenses (sometimes that's not a very good idea). :lol: In some forums, that's considered a serious breach of etiquette (just to let you know).

Users often don't appreciate mentioning an alternative solution, especially when they have an investment in a manufacturer's system and lenses, and are asking about a solution for it. ;-)

But, forum members here are are pretty good natured, so don't worry about it. I do it myself from time to time, too (but I wouldn't make a habit out of).

If you can't tell, I'm just teasing you about it (but do be careful in forums specific to a manufacturer when elsewhere, since your motives can sometimes be misinterpreted.

I can almost see the responses from NHL now.:G

If memory serves, he's argued both sides of this issue in the past (stabilized versus non-stabilized solutions), and he's got some excellent iimages to back up his opinions. LOL

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Old Mar 5, 2006, 7:17 PM   #18
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JimC

Unlike other camera aficonado, I'm quite open to 'better' idea and have no biais against other brand especially when I already have some Minolta (and Nikon) film bodies. IMO both KM 5D and 7D deserve some kudo here particularly when it comes to combining theses camerass to a Bigma (or a Sigmonster) lens.

Sure a prime with IS is nice, but see what happened here when I was shooting herons with my Sigma 120-300 with a 2x converter (@ 600mm) and a tit landed close by...
-> If I could not change the focal lenght, I would have ended with up an eye ball and a beak instead (not that I need 'antishake' for that shot): :lol: :-) :G

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=11
I'll take this same lens with a KM 7D anytime (anyone care to trade???)


BTW don't forget my 'antishaked' KM A2:
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